Where should you start cutting and sewing? Everyone knows this - from the pattern. To obtain it, you need to build a drawing based on the measurements taken.
So how to take measurements correctly? You should be very careful when taking measurements, because errors and inaccuracies in measurements can later lead to errors in the drawing. In this case, such a drawing will not fully reflect the features of your figure, and the finished product may come out with defects.
The person from whom measurements are taken should wear light clothing. You need to stand calmly and freely, naturally, maintaining your normal posture. 
Mark the waist on the figure using braid. Place it strictly horizontally. On clothing, you need to use pins to mark the high points of the chest (these are the most convex points of your mammary glands) and the points of the ends of the shoulders.
Take measurements with a centimeter tape with an accuracy of up to one whole division. And no sagging or tightening is allowed. 
And the measurement results are usually written down in abbreviated form. All length results must be recorded in full size. Take measurements in accordance with the drawing of measurements, watch the video, which is located under the article, it will complement and clearly tell you how to take measurements correctly.
1. Half neck circumference - PoSh
Place the centimeter around the neck and connect it in the middle of the cervical cavity. Write down the measurement result in half size. So, if the measurement result is 40 cm, you should write:
NOS = 40: 2 = 20 centimeters 
2. Half chest circumference 1 - PoG1
Place the centimeter at the back along the convex places of the shoulder blades horizontally and connect above the mammary glands in the middle. Mark this point on the clothing with a pin. 
3. Half chest circumference 2 - PoG2
Place the tape measure on your back in the same way as when taking measurements PoG1, but connect it in front, passing it through the high points of your chest. Take measurements PoG1 and PoG2 one after another, changing the position of the centimeter only on the chest. Write down the measurement result in half size (divided in half).
4. Half waist circumference - PoW 
Place a centimeter around your waist. Write down this measurement in half size. In some cases, you may need to measure your full waist circumference (this is OT).
5. Next measurement: half hip circumference - PoB 
Run a centimeter along the most convex points of the buttocks and connect them in front to the bulge of the abdomen. Record it in half size. When sewing some products, you may need to measure for the full circumference of the hips (and this is About).
6. Another Shoulder Length - Lp
Place a measuring tape in the middle of the shoulder slope and measure the distance from the base of the neck to the end of the shoulder. We continue taking measurements.
7. Sleeve length - DR
This is the distance from the point of the end of our shoulder along its outer side for a freely lowered arm to the wrist. Write down the measurement completely. 
8. Arm circumference - OR
You need to place a centimeter around your arm at the level of the armpit horizontally. If the product model requires a narrow sleeve, it is necessary to take measurements of the arm circumference directly at the level of the elbow and wrist. The hand should be freely lowered when taking measurements. The measurement result must be recorded in full.
9. Half back width, abbreviated as PShs
The distance between the back corners of your armpits. Write down the measurement in half size. 
10. Another half shoulder width - PSH
The distance between the shoulder points on the side of the back; when taking measurements, the measuring tape should pass through the sprout. Also write it in half size.
11. Back length to waist, another measurement - DST
Distance from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. To find it (the seventh cervical vertebra), you need to tilt your head forward; it will step very clearly on the back of your neck. Write down the measurement completely. 
12. Armhole depth - ГПр
When taking measurements, place a strip of thick paper under your arm and measure the distance from its top edge to the base of your neck. The tape measure should be drawn along the convexity of the shoulder blades, parallel to the spine.
13. Side length - DB
The distance from the top edge of the strip of paper (see GPR) to the waist line.
14. Back shoulder height, again abbreviating the name - VPS
This measurement must be taken in two directions: oblique shoulder height (the distance from the point where the spine intersects with our waist line to the end of the shoulder, while the centimeter should pass through the shoulder blade) and straight shoulder height (the distance from the waist to the shoulder parallel to the spine). Write this measurement down as a fraction, indicating the value of the oblique shoulder height in the numerator, and the straight line in the denominator.
15. Half the width of the chest, first measurement - PSHG1
Place a measuring tape over the base of the breasts from one armpit to the other. Record the measurement result
at half size.
16. Half the width of the chest, second measurement - PShG2
Measure in the same way as PSHG1, but draw the centimeter through the high points of the chest.
16a. Half the width of the bust, abbreviation - PSHB
The distance between the front corners of your armpits, a centimeter goes through the high points of your chest.
17. Center of the bust - Central Bank
The horizontal distance between the highest points of the breasts. The measurement should be recorded in half size.
18. Chest height - VG
Distance from the very base of the neck to the high point of the chest
19. Next measurement: the length of the front to the waist is DPT
Measure immediately after V.G. To do this, draw a centimeter from the base of your neck through the high point of your chest down to the waist line. Write down the measurement result in full.
20. The length of the middle front is measured using chipboard
Distance from the jugular cavity to the waist line. For those with a large bust: Apply a thin ruler to the protruding points and draw a centimeter line through it. To control, additionally measure the depth of the neck from the base of the neck at the shoulder to the top edge of the ruler, which you place horizontally at the jugular cavity. Taking measurements continues))
Check that this measurement, if added to the depth of the neckline, should add up to a measurement of the length of the front to the waist. Write down the measurement in two numbers; the first number is the depth of the neck, and the second is the chipboard itself.
21. Another measure: front shoulder height - runway
This measurement should be taken in two directions: from the shoulder point to the very center of the bust and from it to the waist line parallel to the middle of the front. Record both results.
22. Product length - DI
This is the distance from our seventh cervical vertebra in the middle of the back down to our desired length of the finished product. Write down the measurement result in full. 
23. Skirt length - Du
The distance from the waist line to the desired point, the measuring tape should run along the side.
24. The length in the middle of the front from the waist to the floor is DPP
25. We continue, measuring the length on the side from our waist line to the floor is Dbp
26. Next, the length from the waist to the floor in the back - Dps
Measure along the line of the spine and below, continuing this line.
26a. Skirt length in the middle front - Dp
To obtain it, you should subtract from the DPP measurement the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor.
26b. Back skirt length - Ds
To find this measurement, subtract the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor from the DPS measurement.
27. Measure the length of trousers - Dbr
The distance from the side of your waist to the bottom of your pants.
27a. Pants length to the knee - Dbrk
Distance from the waist and side to the knee.
28. Hip circumference - About
Place the measuring tape horizontally around the thigh directly at the subgluteal fold.
29. Seat height - Sun. To do this, the person from whom you are taking this measurement must sit on
hard chair. Measure the distance from the waist line to the seat (the centimeter should go along the side).
30. Seat length - Ds. The distance from the waist in front to the waist line in the back (in this case, the measuring tape should pass through the groin).
31. Step length - Lsh
Distance from groin to floor.
32. Knee circumference - Ok
The person you are taking measurements from should bend their knees at an angle of 90°.
33. The height of the subgluteal fold is VV
Distance from the middle of the subgluteal fold to the floor. At this point, taking measurements can be considered a completed stage.
Learning to take measurements correctly is important not only for constructing the basis of the drawing, but also for the successful selection of ready-made patterns, checking them and adjusting them to your sizes.
The correctness of the drawing and, as a result, the fit of the product on the figure depend on the accuracy of taking measurements, so when taking measurements it is necessary to follow certain rules.
You already know the rules for taking measurements and recording measurement results.
To construct the basis for a drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve, take the measurements shown in Figure 57 and given in Table 10. The last column of the table shows the values of measurements for a girl with a height of 158 cm and size 46.
Rice. 57. Measurements and measuring lines
Table 10. Measurements for constructing the basis of a drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve
|
Name |
Conditional |
Rules |
Purpose |
Magnitude |
|
Half girth |
Horizontally through the armpits, at the level of the high points of the chest and through the protruding points of the shoulder blades |
Definition |
||
|
Back length |
From the seventh cervical vertebra along the spine to the lace that secures the waist line |
Waist line definition |
||
|
Shoulder circumference |
Perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder at the level of the axilla, touching the upper edge of the posterior corner of the axilla |
Determining sleeve width |
||
|
Half neck circumference |
At the base of the neck above the seventh cervical vertebra and above the jugular cavity |
Determining neck size |
||
|
Length of the product |
From the highest point of the shoulder parallel to the spine to the desired length of the product |
Determining product length |
Practical work No. 14
Taking measurements to build the basis of a drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve
Tools and materials: measuring tape, tape for fixing the waist line, workbook.
- Using table 10, together with a classmate, take each other’s measurements and write them down in your workbook.
- Write down the symbols for the measurements.
- Prepare a sheet of graph paper to construct the basis of a drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve.
Control questions
1. What measurements need to be taken from a person’s figure to construct the basis of a drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve? 2. What new measurements did you learn?
How often, when you come to a store, try on a dress, coat, blouse, etc. you like and look at your reflection in the mirror, you realize that this is not “your” thing: somewhere it’s tight, somewhere it’s tugging or wrinkles - in short, it doesn't suit you. Do you know why?
It’s all very simple - these are mass-produced clothes, which are tailored to the measurements of standard figures, but for the most part we are all different. That is why we will talk about individual tailoring, which involves everything “mine” - my dress, skirt, blouse, etc.
When tailoring individually, the features of the figure of the person for whom the clothes are being sewn must be taken into account. That is, it is necessary to create a pattern, and then sew clothes according to this pattern, based on the characteristics of a particular person.
General rules
In order to correctly take measurements - the initial stage in the process of creating a pattern, you must follow the following rules:
The person from whom measurements are taken must be without shoes, stand straight, leaning on both legs and maintaining his usual posture;
To avoid distortion of indicators, measurements are taken directly on underwear - if it is assumed that a dress, blouse, etc. will be sewn, or on any other clothing - if a coat, jacket, etc.;
During the measurement process, it is necessary to pay attention to what features the figure has: shoulder height, shape of the back, chest, position of the mammary glands, etc.;
Measurements are made using a thick measuring tape, which must not be loosened or stretched when measuring;
Taking measurements should begin by marking approximate points and lines directly on the figure. To do this, the waist line is fixed with a thin braid or elastic band, which is positioned strictly horizontally if it is intended to sew shoulder items (dresses, blouses, jackets), so how it will fit on the figure if waist items (skirts, trousers).
The points of the base of the neck and the shoulder - at the edge of the shoulder (if you mentally connect them, we get the position of the shoulder seam line) - are marked with chalk or a pencil, the centers of the mammary glands - with pins;
In order to record the back and front angles of the armpit and the length of the side when measuring, place a strip of thick paper 3-5 cm wide and about 50 cm long under your arm.
And be sure to remember: given that the pattern drawings are based on half the figure, measurements of girth (except for the arm girth) and width are recorded in half size. The measurement values of the lengths, heights and widths of the shoulder slope are recorded completely.
All measurements have abbreviations:
O - girth
C - half-circumference
W - width
D - length
B - height
C - distance between centers
The designations that are written in lowercase letters next to the capital letters of the measurements indicate the location of the measurement, for example St - half waist circumference.
Before you start taking measurements, you need to dwell on one important point, in my opinion. History knows the names of not only famous people in the fashion world, but also entire dynasties who devoted themselves to one goal - creating an ideal, from their point of view, method of cutting and sewing garments. As a result, we have many techniques, but, unfortunately, none of them is universal.
We have come to the stage of creating an individual base pattern, by modeling which you can later create various clothing models yourself or, having understood the principle of constructing a base pattern, adapt the magazine options you like.
The method of constructing a base pattern, in my opinion, will not be difficult for beginners. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that different methods can use not only a different list of measurements necessary for constructing their basic patterns, but also different methods for taking the measurements themselves.
It is quite possible that in the future, having gained some experience, you will be interested in working with other methods, so I suggest you familiarize yourself with the full list of measurements used to create an individual base pattern.
Taking measurements
Ssh - half neck circumference
The centimeter tape passes over the 7th cervical vertebra (when the head is tilted forward, a clear tubercle appears on the spine, in the area of the articulation of the neck and torso - this is the 7th cervical vertebra), encircling the side along the base of the neck and closing in front above the jugular cavity. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Сг1 - half chest circumference first
The measuring tape runs horizontally along the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the rear corners of the armpits, along the armpits and in front above the mammary glands, closing on the right side of the chest. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Сr2 - half chest circumference second
In this measurement, the position of the measuring tape changes only from the front. The tape is lowered to the level of the mammary glands and, passing through the protruding points of the mammary glands, it is closed at the center of the right breast. This measurement is used to determine the size of the product. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
St - half waist circumference
The measuring tape runs strictly horizontally around the body along the waist line. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Sat - half hip circumference
In my opinion, this is the most controversial indicator according to existing measurement methods. Without going into details of the analysis of existing methods for measuring this indicator, I propose to make this measurement as follows: a measuring tape encircles the hip area from the back along the most protruding points of the buttocks, closing in front on the right side of the body.
Please note that this measurement will be considered correct if you have a flat stomach. For those who have such dignity, the measurement of the indicator is completed at this stage.
In order to get the correct numbers for owners of a protruding tummy, I suggest resorting to this trick - take a thick sheet of paper (whatman paper, wallpaper, etc.) and wrap it around your hips. Make marks with a pencil where the sides meet. Having unfolded the sheet, measure the distance between the marks with a centimeter tape. This will be the amount you need. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Dpl - shoulder length
A measuring tape runs from the base of the neck at the shoulder along the center of the shoulder slope (seam) to the shoulder point. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Dr - sleeve length
The measuring tape runs from the shoulder point through the protruding point of the elbow to the hand along the arm slightly bent at the elbow. At the same time, measure the length of the sleeve to the elbow. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Or - arm circumference
The hand is in a lowered position. A measuring tape encircles the outer surface of the arm in the armpit area. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Ok - hand girth
A tape measure goes around the wrist joint. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Shs - back width
A measuring tape runs horizontally along the convexity of the shoulder blades between the back corners of the armpits. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Shpl - shoulder width
The measuring tape runs horizontally along the back between the left and right shoulder points. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Dst1 - back length to waist
A measuring tape runs along the line of the spine from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Dst2 - back length to waist
A measuring tape runs from the back parallel to the spine from the base of the neck at the shoulder through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the intersection with the waist line. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
I draw your attention to the fact that there are methods where two measurements - Dst1 and Dst2 - are used simultaneously. However, there are quite a few methods where each of these dimensions acts independently, i.e. either Dst1 (we will use this one) or Dst2.
Wb - hip height
This measure also has several measurement options. In this case, I propose to make this measurement as follows: a measuring tape runs along the spine from the 7th cervical vertebra to the most protruding points of the buttocks, while fitting tightly to the spine. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Gpr - armhole depth
To carry out this measurement, you need to press under your arm, at the level of the armpit, a strip of thick paper 3-5 cm wide and about 50 cm long, placing one end under your arm, and bend the other end towards the shoulder blades, placing it strictly horizontally. The measuring tape runs from the point at the base of the neck at the shoulder to the top edge of the strip of paper. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
db - side length
A measuring tape runs from the back side vertically from the top edge of the paper strip to the waist line. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Vps - back shoulder height
This measurement is carried out in two directions, it determines the position of the shoulder point in relation to the waist line. The measuring tape runs from the shoulder point through the shoulder blade to the intersection of the waist line with the spine (oblique shoulder height) from the shoulder point parallel to the spine to the waist line (straight shoulder height).
It is customary to write a measurement as a fraction: in the numerator - the value of the oblique measurement, in the denominator - the direct measurement. The resulting measurements are recorded in full.
Shg1 - chest width first
A measuring tape runs between the front corners of the armpits above the base of the mammary glands. This is a control measure. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
Shg2 - second chest width
The measurement is taken with the arms down. The measuring tape runs from the junction of the left arm with the body along the protruding points of the mammary glands to the junction of the right arm with the body. The resulting measurement is recorded at half the value.
CG - center of the chest
A measuring tape passes between the centers of the mammary glands. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Vg - chest height
The measuring tape runs from the base of the neck at the shoulder to the protruding point of the chest gland (usually measured on the right side). The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Dpt - front length to waist
A measuring tape runs from the base of the neck at the shoulder through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
VPP - front shoulder height
Just like shoulder height, this measurement is taken in two directions.
First measurement: a measuring tape runs from the shoulder point to the center of the breast;
second measurement: without changing the position of the upper edge of the measuring tape, parallel to the middle of the front, the measuring tape is lowered down until it intersects with the waist line. The resulting measurements are recorded in full.
Di - product length
The measuring tape runs from the 7th cervical vertebra down through the waist line to the desired point for shoulder items (dresses, coats, etc.) and from the waist to the desired point for waist items (trousers and skirts). The resulting measurements are recorded in full.
Dnv - leg length on the outside
A measuring tape runs from the waistline along the side to the floor. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Dsh - step length
A measuring tape runs along the inside of the leg from the groin to the floor. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Sun - seat height
The person being measured should sit upright in a chair with a flat, hard seat. A measuring tape runs along the side from the waist line to the seat of the chair. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Ds - seat length
A measuring tape runs from the back waistline through the groin to the front waistline. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Ok - knee circumference
A measuring tape encircles the leg, bent at an angle of 90 degrees, at the level of the knee point. The resulting measurement is recorded in full.
Source - Bible of Cutting and Sewing magazine
When starting to sew clothes, you first need to take measurements, on the basis of which you can then build a drawing and make a pattern of the appropriate sizes.
Taking measurements is the first step in constructing a product drawing. This is a very important part of the job. If measurements are taken incorrectly and inaccurately, difficulties arise not only when constructing a drawing, but also during fitting and sewing of the product.
The good fit of the product on the figure and its fit depends on how correctly and accurately the measurements are taken from the figure.
Also, when taking measurements of a figure, it is necessary to take into account.
In order to obtain accurate dimensional characteristics of a human figure, the following conditions must be met:
1. Changing your posture affects the size, so when taking measurements you need to stand straight, without tension, in a natural position, with your arms freely lowered, your heels together, your toes turned out.
It is advisable that the person being measured sees himself in a full-length mirror. This is necessary so that the customer has the opportunity to see the posture of his body, as well as the opportunity, when taking measurements, to once again check the correctness of the pre-agreed lengths: the length of the product, sleeves, etc.
2. The person being measured must be dressed in underwear or a light, thin dress without sleeves, without large layers of fabric that interfere with the measurement.
3. A good fit of the product on the figure largely depends on the exact position of the waist line, therefore, when taking measurements, the figure is encircled at the waist with a thin cord or elastic band strictly horizontally.
4. To measure the figure more accurately, you need to mark the position of the main points on it:
5. To obtain measurements, you should measure your figure with the measuring tape in full contact, without taking into account allowances for a loose fit, since allowances for a loose fit will be provided when constructing a design drawing, depending on the silhouette, fabric and purpose of the product.
All length measurements are taken and recorded in full. Measurements for circumference and width are taken in full, and recorded in half size, with the exception of the following measurements: arm circumference (OR), hand circumference (OK), wrist circumference (OZ), leg circumference at the top and knee (OH, OK).
Basic measurements for shoulder products
SSH – half neck circumference– measurements are taken at the base of the neck. The centimeter tape at the back passes its lower edge over the seventh cervical vertebra; on the side – at the base of the neck; in front it closes above the jugular notch. Recorded at half size.
When taking this measurement, you should pay attention to the shape and position of the neck. The length of the neck is taken into account when choosing a product model; shape and fat deposits are taken into account in the design when determining the width and depth of the neck. The position of the neck influences the design of the neckline in products.
SG1 – half chest circumference first– a centimeter tape passes horizontally along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the rear corners of the armpits. At the front, the tape should pass along the protruding points of the chest.
SG2 – half chest circumference second- removed sequentially after SG1. Without moving a centimeter from the shoulder blades, in front the tape passes over the base of the mammary glands.
SG3 – half chest circumference third– the measuring tape should pass horizontally around the body, parallel to the waist, through the protruding points of the chest, without taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades. The size of this measurement determines the size of the figure.
ST – half waist circumference– the measurement is taken at the narrowest point of the body. The measuring tape should run horizontally. Recorded at half size.
SB - half hip circumference– the measurement is carried out strictly horizontally around the hips along the most protruding parts of the buttocks, closing the measuring tape on the right side of the body. Recorded at half size.
If the SB measurement needs to be made taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen, then the position of the measuring tape is the same as stated above, only in front it should pass along a flexible plate (ruler) applied vertically to the stomach to take into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
Some women have two hip girths - upper and lower, and the lower girth is larger than the upper and is not recorded by the usual measurement. To reveal the lower increased girth, the measuring tape is clamped at the level of the upper measurement and the measuring tape is lowered in a circular motion. If it does not go down, the tape is lowered by the required amount and thus the second lower girth is fixed. Write down these measurements side by side and measure the length to the lower girth. When constructing a drawing, these features are taken into account.
HB – hip height – measured vertically from the waist line to the most protruding point of the hip.
LL – line of blades– measure from the point of the base of the neck to the designated point on the back (the most protruding point of the shoulder blades) which is located at the level between the upper corners of the armpits. Make sure that the measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
DTS – back length to waist– removed along the back from the intended point of the base of the neck through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the waist (the most protruding part of the shoulder blade is used). The measuring tape should run parallel to the spine. If the person being measured has different shoulder blade heights, then the measurement is taken on the higher side of the back.
DIZ – product length– measure simultaneously with the DTS measurement from the intended point of the base of the neck along the back through the convexity of the shoulder blades, without tearing off the measuring tape to the desired length. The measuring tape lies strictly vertically. Hold the tape at the waist with your left hand, and determine the length of the product with your right hand.
NPS – shoulder back tilt- measured from the intended shoulder point (the final, lowest point of the shoulder) through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the center of the back at the waist (or to the point of intersection of the spine with the waist line).
If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is made on the higher shoulder or the height of both shoulders is measured. The difference in measurements of the right and left sides is eliminated during the manufacture of the product.
ShS – back width– measured horizontally along the shoulder blades between the back corners of the armpits, directly above the line of the chest girths of the first and second. Write down this measurement in half size.
When taking measurements, the widest part of the back is taken. At the same time, pay attention to the location of the protrusion of the shoulder blades and the curvature of the back, which is taken into account when constructing the midline of the back and darts for the shoulder blades. This measurement must be particularly accurate. Do not tuck measuring tape under your armpits.
ШПр – armhole width– the measurement is carried out using a ruler at the level of the posterior corners of the armpits with the arm freely lowered. That is, this is the distance between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front and back corners of the armpits.
VPr - armhole height- measured along the back vertically from the base of the neck to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter or ribbon at the level of the upper corners of the armpits. This measurement determines the depth of the armhole.
Road accident – front length to waist– remove from the intended point of the base of the neck through the center of the chest gland to the waist. Fully recorded.
VG – chest height– remove from the intended point of the base of the neck to the center of the chest. Fully recorded.
When taking this measurement, pay attention to the shape of the underwear and determine the correct position of the center of the chest so that the position of the dart in the product does not have to be changed. For a figure with a high chest, the center is lowered by 0.5-1 cm. This is especially important in products made of rigid fabric.
NPP - front shoulder tilt– measured from the intended shoulder point (the middle of the shoulder joint) to the protruding point of the chest. Fully recorded.
If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is carried out on the higher shoulder or on the right and left sides separately.
ШГ1 – chest width first– the measurement is carried out horizontally along the protruding points of the chest between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the corners of the armpits (approximately at a distance of 1.2-1.5 cm from the hand). Recorded at half size.
ШГ2 – second chest width– measured horizontally above the base of the mammary glands between the corners of the armpits. Recorded at half size.
URV – tuck solution level– measured simultaneously with the SHG2 measurement from the lower edge of the tape above the base of the chest to the highest right point of the mammary gland. Fully recorded.
RC – distance between the centers of the chest– measured between the most protruding points of the chest. The measuring tape should lie horizontally. Recorded at half size.
Lp – shoulder length– the measurement is taken from the point of the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder ridge to the shoulder point. Fully recorded.
DR - sleeve length– the measurement is carried out from the shoulder point with the arm freely lowered to the desired length, depending on the type of product.
DL – elbow length– is removed simultaneously with measuring the length of the sleeve to the elbow bone.
OR – arm circumference– the measurement is carried out with the arm strictly lowered around the arm horizontally so that the upper edge touches the posterior corner of the armpit. The tape should close on the outer surface of the hand. Fully recorded.
The measurement is necessary to determine the width of the armhole and the width of the sleeve at the top. With a very full arm, it is necessary to take this circumstance into account when constructing the sleeve and distributing the fit along the edge.
OZ - wrist circumference– measured along the wrist joint through the head of the radial bone. The measuring tape should close on the outer surface of the arm.
OK – hand circumference– measured at the widest point of the hand with slightly extended fingers. Fully recorded.
Basic measurements for trousers
DsB – side length– measured from the waist along the side of the thigh through the most protruding area of the thigh and then vertically to the floor.
The distance from the waist line to the floor on the side of a typical figure is equal on the left and right sides and it is greater than the distance from the waist line to the floor in front and to the floor in the back by 1-1.5 cm. Deviation of the value up or down indicates the individual characteristics of the figure .
You can read more about the optimal length of trousers in the article -
Chipboard – front length– measure from the waist through the most protruding point of the abdomen and then vertically to the floor.
DsZ – back length- measured vertically from the waist to the floor at the back through the bulge of the buttock.
DtK – waist knee length– measured simultaneously with the DSB measurement from the elastic at the waist along the side of the leg to the middle of the knee.
DS 1 – step length first– measured in the “riding the ruler” position from the top edge of the ruler to the floor along the inside of the leg. This measure also has a name The length of the leg along the inner surface is DN.
DS 2 – second step length– measured from the back from under the gluteal fold to the floor.
Note. If the measurements of DS 1 and DS 2 are taken correctly, then DS 1 > DS 2 by 1-1.5-2-2.5-3-4 cm, where 2-2.5 cm for a conditionally proportional figure.
BC – seat height– measured while sitting on a chair-table. A measuring tape runs from the elastic along the side to the horizontal of the chair.
OB (Lunch) – hip circumference– measure the widest part of the leg at the top, touching the upper edge of the measuring tape under the gluteal fold.
OH - leg circumference– measure 10-15 cm above the knee. The tape measure is horizontal.
OK – knee circumference– measured around the knee with the leg bent at an angle of 90 0. The measuring tape runs along the popliteal fossa, closing at the front in the middle of the knee. For tight-fitting trousers, the measurement is taken with the leg straightened.
GI - calf girth- measured horizontally along the most prominent points of the calf muscle.
OSH - ankle circumference- the tape runs horizontally around the leg over the inside of the ankle and closes on the outside of the shin.
OS - instep circumference- measure through the back most protruding point of the heel and the highest point of the instep.
DP – groin length– control measurement, measured from the elastic at the waist line in the front through the groin to the elastic at the waist at the back. The crotch length is equal to the length of the bow line plus the length of the seat line on the pattern drawing.
ШН – width of the bottom of the trousers– choose at will and it depends on fashion, style, fabric.
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In this article we will look at the measurements needed to create a basic dress pattern.
In my first article, I already looked at the measurements on the basis of which we built according to Tatyana Roslyakova’s method. However, in the article we found out that there are several dozen computational and graphic cutting methods that differ not only in calculation formulas and drawings, but in the amount of data about the figure. The more measurements of a figure are taken to construct a design, the more accurate the pattern will be. In this article we will look at the measurements necessary to construct a basic structure using the TsOTSL method. The exact name of the methodology is EMKO TsOTSHL (a unified method of clothing design developed by the Central Experimental Technological Sewing Laboratory).
You can read what rules you must follow when taking measurements.
And we start measuring.
Half neck circumference (Ssh)- measure along the base of the neck (write down half the measurement).
Blade line (Ll)- measure from the point of the base of the neck to the level of the most convex part of the shoulder blades, focusing on the level between the back corners of the armpits, the measuring tape should run parallel to the spine (the measurement is recorded in full).
Chest line (Lg)- measure from the intended point of the base of the neck through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the braid that runs along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. A measuring tape parallel to the spine (the measurement is recorded in full).
Back Waist Length (Dts)- measured simultaneously with the Lg measurement along the back from the intended point of the base of the neck through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the braid at the waist (the most protruding part of the shoulder blade is used) (the measurement is recorded in full).
Back Width (Shs)- measure between the back corners of the armpits, placing the measuring tape horizontally at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades (write down half the measurement).
Side length (db)- measured from the back from the waist line in a straight line to the top edge of the ruler applied to the back corner of the armpit (the measurement is written down in full).
Armhole width (Shpr)- the measurement is carried out using a ruler at the level of the back corners of the armpits with the arm freely lowered, measure the distance between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front and back corners of the armpits (the measurement is written down in full).
Shoulder Back Tilt (NPS)- measure from the intended shoulder point (the final, lowest point of the shoulder) through the convexity of the shoulder blades to the center of the back at the waist (the measurement is recorded in full).
Front length to waist (Dtp)- measured from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line (the measurement is recorded in full).
Chest Height (Vg)- this measurement is measured simultaneously with the length of the front to the waist from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest (the measurement is recorded in full).
Front shoulder tilt (Npp)- measure from the intended shoulder point (the middle of the shoulder joint) to the highest point of the chest (the measurement is recorded in full).
Center of the chest (CG)- measure along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest (write down half the measurement).
Chest width first (Wd1) - measured through the protruding points of the chest in the horizontal plane, measure the distance between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front corners of the armpits (write down half the measurement).
Chest width second (Wg2)- the measurement is carried out in a horizontal plane above the base of the chest between the front corners of the armpits (the measurement is recorded in half size).
First chest semicircle (Cr1)- measured around the body. From the back, the measuring tape is placed horizontally along the lower corners of the shoulder blades, touching with its upper edge the back corners of the armpits, then along the armpits. At the front, the tape passes over the base of the chest and closes on the right side of the chest (half the measurement is recorded).
Second chest semicircle (Cr2)- measure around the torso sequentially after measuring Cr1, without changing the position of the measuring tape on the back, which should pass horizontally along the shoulder blades and touching the armpits with its upper edge, and in front the tape should pass along the protruding points of the chest, closing on the right side (half the measurement is recorded)
Third chest semicircle (Cr3)- measure the full circumference of the chest, the measuring tape should pass along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest (write down half the measurement).
Shoulder Length (Dp)- measured along the shoulder line from the base of the neck to the extreme point of the shoulder (the measurement is written down in full)
Product length (Di)- measure from the seventh cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (the measurement is written down in full). The seventh cervical vertebra is very easy to find: when you tilt your head, the most protruding vertebra is the seventh.
We record all measurements to the nearest millimeter; rounding measurements is not allowed!
