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Xanthan gum in cosmetics. Xanthan gum - why is it needed in cosmetics? How to properly use gum in cosmetics proportions

INCI: Xanthan gum

Appearance: finely dispersed white powder with a slight grayish tint, tasteless and odorless.

Peculiarities:

Xanthan gum is a biopolymer, which is a high molecular weight anionic polysaccharide.

It consists of repeating fragments, each of which contains two glucose residues, two mannose residues and one glucuronic acid residue. Anionic character xanthan gum imparts the presence of carboxyl and pyruvate acid groups in the branches of the main chain.

Typically these acid groups are partially or completely neutralized, forming potassium, sodium or calcium salts, thereby reducing the initial anionicity of xanthan gum.

The molecular weight of xanthan gum can be adjusted by changing the living conditions of producing microorganisms.

Emulsions in which it is used xanthan gum have the so-called thixotropy. In other words, they become thicker at rest, and under mechanical action they liquefy with a decrease in viscosity.

The viscosity of xanthan gum solution is not affected by pH fluctuations.

The solution retains its viscosity in the pH range 2-12.

This high stability allows use xanthan gum to thicken strongly acidic and alkaline solutions.

For solution viscosity xanthan gum not affected by temperature fluctuations, heating to 90°C and presence of salts.

Solubility:

Xanthan gum Fine dissolves as in cold and warm water, forming viscous solutions.

Additionally, xanthan gum may fast dissolve into small volumes of ethyl alcohol(at its concentration above 70%), or in glycerin. The latter two methods of dissolving xanthan gum are sometimes used in the production of pharmaceuticals.

pH 1% aqueous solution - 6.5-7

Compatibility .

Combination of xanthan and guar gums allows you to reduce the % of input of these gelling agents and reduces the tightness and film effect that sometimes appears when using these products.

Combination of xanthan gum and locust bean gum, or xanthan gum and konjac gum significantly increases the viscosity of the gel, while reducing the % input of gelling agents.

Combination of xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose also increases the viscosity and stability of the resulting gel.

Use in cosmetics:

  • Thickener for the aqueous phase of creams, improving the stability and properties of the product;
  • Thickener for shampoos and shower gels, intimate hygiene gels, etc.
  • Supplement to reduce transepidermal water loss from the skin.

* In cold, dry weather, it is recommended to add humectants such as lactic acid, sodium lactate, and small amounts of glycerin to cosmetics containing xanthan gum.

additional information :

Xanthan gum is produced by controlled aerobic fermentation of Xanthomonas campestri cultures, which naturally live on cruciferous plants. These microorganisms secrete xanthan gum on the outside of the cell wall, mucusing the external environment.

Under industrial conditions, this substrate is filtered, and the gum is precipitated with ethanol.

Xanthan gum is declared as a food additive E415. It is widely used in the food industry as a consistency stabilizer, thickener, and binding agent in jams, marmalades, cheeses, fermented milk and other products.

A variety of decorative cosmetics and other cosmetics for body and hair care introduce every representative of the fair sex into the world of illusions and deception. What is written today on billboards and product covers (for example, an effective youth cream) is never true. In the best case, the effect of the cream will be diminished tens of times, while in addition to some external improvements, the person receives internal deterioration.

Nowadays, chemistry is present everywhere, and often those components that are used in cosmetology are also popular in industry. When shopping in stores, you should carefully study the composition of all cosmetics. So, most often you can find xanthan gum in the cream.

Xanthan was first discovered in the late fifties in a laboratory of the US Department of Agriculture. At that time, research was being carried out there on the industrial application of microbiotic biopolymers. The bacterium Xanthomonas campestris was found in cabbage vegetables and was found to produce a polysaccharide with a high molecular weight. This polysaccharide protected the bacterium from viruses and drying out. It was called Xanthan in the early 60s and was first put into industrial production under the trade name Kelzan. This was done by Kelco.

Xanth gum is a food additive that belongs to the group of emulsifiers, stabilizers and thickeners. It looks like a regular white or beige powder and dissolves quickly in cold and hot water.

The culture that produces xanthan is grown in large containers under conditions of careful control over air supply, mixing, chemical composition of the medium and its temperature. This process lasts no more than 4 days. After this, the polysaccharide is extracted from the medium by adding isopropyl alcohol, dried and ground to obtain a powder.

Properties:

  • stabilizer, emulsifier;
  • gelling agent;
  • stabilizer;
  • chemical resistance to the influence of alcohol, acid and other enzymes;
  • resistant to high and low temperatures;
  • resistant to changes in pH acidity;
  • resistant to enzymatic degradation.

These properties help the resin extend the shelf life of a particular product or cosmetic.

Benefits and harms of xanthan gum in cosmetics

Hanthan gum is used as a food additive and a component that is added to cosmetics. Its peculiarity lies in the ability to thicken the mass and stabilize it. This thickener is obtained by fermenting glucose, lactose or sucrose using a special bacterium. It is known that no negative results from studies on hanthan gum have been established. Therefore, the component is actively used both in cosmetology and in the food industry.

However, experts say that people who are allergic to wheat and corn, dairy and soy products should avoid cosmetics with xanth gum. There is a high probability of an allergic reaction. Otherwise, the component is absolutely safe for people and does not pose any harm to health.

The ingredient is found almost everywhere, both in cheap and expensive cosmetics. Therefore, allergy sufferers need to be careful. In any case, when purchasing a new cosmetic product, it is worth monitoring the general condition in order to detect negative changes in the body, for example, nausea, dizziness, irritation, etc. Then it will be much easier to identify the causes.

Cosmetic properties of xanthan gum:

  • thanks to xanthan, a protective film is formed on the face;
  • moisturizing and moisture-retaining properties;
  • thickener;
  • emulsifier and stabilizer for cosmetic mixtures;
  • Easily cleanses the skin.

Uses of xanth gum

You can find xanthan gum in the following products:

  • shampoos;
  • hand, face and body creams;
  • dietary products;
  • sweet drinks;
  • frozen and dairy products;
  • instant food products, etc.

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Xanthan gum (xanthan gum, supraxan, gum) - polysaccharide (C 35 H 49 O 29) n used as a thickener, gelling agent and stabilizer. Produced by fermentation of hydrocarbons using bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan is produced by bacteria to protect against drying out. This property makes it a popular component of cosmetics for moisturizing the skin.

Basic properties:

  • thickener and gelling agent;
  • emulsifier and stabilizer;
  • chemical resistance to enzymes, alcohols, acids;
  • resistance to both high (up to +120ºС) and low (down to −20ºС) temperatures;
  • high viscosity values ​​in the range from 2 to 12.

Thanks to these properties, it improves the structure of cosmetic products, stabilizes them for a long time and extends shelf life. Widely used in the production of sauces, drinks, desserts, dairy products, ice cream, etc.

Xanthan has been assigned the food additive code E415.

Harm:

Xanthan is often said to be harmful simply because its dietary supplement code begins with “E.” Of course, no explanations or arguments are given. Simply harmful - that's all. Sometimes it is even contemptuously called “microbial sugar.”

You can’t please these alarmist citizens - they don’t like the “chemical” substance because it is “synthetic”, they didn’t like the natural substance because it’s “microbial”. As usual, they don’t give a damn about numerous laboratory studies that have proven the complete safety of xanthan.

Conclusion:

Xanthan gum is a useful component of cosmetics, found in both “natural” and “vegetarian” cosmetics. No harmful properties have been identified in xanthan, and the benefits are obvious.

Xanthan/Xanthan gum in cosmetics is a natural stabilizer and thickener, widely used, first of all, in the production of all types of cosmetics and personal care products. Suitable for all types of cosmetics without exception, used by supporters of vegetarianism, since its source is not animals or inorganic/synthetic compounds.

The main advantage over other similar substances is its good solubility in water and the ability to increase the viscosity of any substance over a wide range of acidity and temperatures. Xanthan is not affected by high temperatures, has high resistance to electrolytes and meets all generally accepted norms and standards.

So what is xanthan gum? It is a polysaccharide of natural origin, having a high molecular weight and consisting of monosaccharides formed by molecules of glucuronic acid, mannose and glucose. Thanks to this composition, xanthan gum improves the quality of any paste and emulsion, ensures moisture retention in cosmetic preparations and extends the shelf life of products.

What cosmetic preparations may contain xanthan?

The substance is popular among cosmetics manufacturers. Thanks to the content of xanthan gum, cosmetic preparations acquire a homogeneous, creamy consistency, their texture improves and the level of foam formation increases. Xanthan is an essential ingredient:

  • foams and gels:
  • hair products;
  • toothpastes;
  • lotions;
  • creams;
  • various lubricants.

Pharmaceutical manufacturers use xanthan gum to make capsules and syrups. It is included in drugs that prevent blood clots and blood substitutes.

In the food industry, E415 is added in the manufacture of jelly-like products such as jams and jellies, sauces and mayonnaise. Xanthan is an essential ingredient in various baking fillings; it is added to dairy desserts, yoghurts, cheeses and instant soups. In the meat processing industry, xanthan gum is used in the production of sausages, canned food and meat products as a moisture-retaining substance.

In accordance with EU Regulations, the maximum permissible content of xnatane in finished cosmetic preparations should not exceed 10%, despite the fact that the standard concentration is 0.5%.

Advantages and disadvantages of cosmetics containing xanthan gum

American scientists conducted a series of studies in 1968, which proved that xanthan gum is absolutely safe for the human body. Today there is no data on the adverse effects of the E-415 component on health.

Xanthan is actively used in the cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical industries by European, American and Japanese manufacturers. In the Russian Federation, this substance is also approved for use as a food additive and is used as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and texture preserver in the production of dietary and low-calorie food products. Xanthan gum can be used alone or in combination with other thickeners.

This completely natural product does not cause allergic reactions, which is why the substance is used in the manufacture of dietary products and baby food.

Xanthan is not absorbed or digested by the digestive tract, therefore, despite the fact that there is no data on the maximum permissible daily intake of the substance, an increased concentration of the product in the human body can manifest itself in the form of intestinal upset.

Can xanthan be harmful to your health?

It is impossible to talk about direct indications or contraindications for the use of xanthan gum, since it acts as an excipient and works as a stabilizer, rheological modifier and emulsifier. E415 in cosmetic products enhances the moisturizing effect and also creates a special protective film on the top layer of the skin.

Xanthan gum is considered a safe product for health; it does not have carcinogens or other toxic components. Gum is used as a neutral polysaccharide in the food industry. The only contraindication for use is individual intolerance to xanthan.

Xanthan has excellent moisture-retaining properties, and regular use of creams and lotions with the addition of this substance helps to increase skin elasticity, smooth out wrinkles and restore the water-fat balance of skin cells.

Xanthan gum is one of the most common natural thickeners that can be used either individually or in combination with other ingredients. For example, gum and bentonite clay, interacting with each other, form a powerful thickener and stabilizer that instantly hydrates even in low-temperature water. This combination is applicable in cases where heating an aqueous solution is unacceptable and acidic compounds cannot be used, and also as a stabilizer for complex emulsions and suspensions.

Xanthan gum is a natural ingredient that helps preserve the properties of cosmetic and hygiene products for a longer period and improves their properties. Also used in the cosmetics industry as a thickener and stabilizer.

Synonyms: Xanthan Gum . Patented formulas: Jungbunzlauer-Xanthan Gum, Artec Chemical Xanthan Gum, Ronas Chemicals-Xanthan Gum, Kahlgum 6650 FQ80 - Xanthan Gum, NOMCORT ZZ, Keldent® Xanthan Gum, ISP Captivates™ GL7003 Discontinued, Keldent®, Cosphaderm® X 17, Divalin GX , Nutrimel® Hair, VANATURAL® XGB, Marine® Juvenium, Vegetal® Juvenium, Almondermin® AF LS 8767, Solagum AX, Rheocare® XG, Versaflex™ V-150, Chcogum T, Lipomoist -2022, Cerasome Oxygen.

Effect of xanthan gum in cosmetics

Xanthan gum is a naturally occurring polysaccharide with a high molecular weight. It consists of repeating units of five monosaccharides, formed by two molecules of glucose, two of mannose, and one of glucuronic acid, which are held together by strong hydrogen bonds. As a result, xanthan gum has excellent viscosity-increasing properties and water solubility coupled with excellent stability that persists over a very wide range of temperatures and acidities. Xanthan gum is insensitive to electrolytes and high temperatures, stable over a wide pH range and, in addition, meets high microbiological standards.

Thanks to this, adding xanthan gum to the formula of almost any product improves its condition (emulsion, paste), as well as the dispersion and absorption of the product by the skin. It also helps improve moisture retention in the product, which further extends the effectiveness and shelf life of the cosmetic product.

Xanthan gum acts as a rheology modifier in aqueous formulas and as a stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions. Also acts as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, skin conditioning agent, emulsifier and thickener. In addition, xanthan gum is responsible for the pleasant sensation when using this product.

It is often used in combination with other natural gums - this is perhaps the most common natural thickener used in cosmetics. However, the combination of xanthan gum and bentonite clay is especially interesting: they enhance the effect of each other and act as a particularly powerful thickener, rheology modifier and stabilizer that quickly hydrates even when stirred in cold water. This combination is especially recommended for suspensions and emulsions that are difficult to stabilize, as well as for cases in which heating of the aqueous phase or other transformative processes is unacceptable, but is not recommended for compositions containing oxidizing agents or very alkaline formulas.

Who is xanthan gum indicated for?

This component has no direct indications, since it is an auxiliary substance (emulsifier, rheological modifier, stabilizer), although it provides an additional effect of moisturizing the skin. Also works as a substance that forms an occlusive protective film on the skin surface

Who should xanthan gum be contraindicated for?

Xanthan gum is a safe, non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and non-irritating ingredient. It is used in the food industry: it is a neutral polysaccharide. A strict contraindication is an individual hypersensitivity reaction.

Cosmetics containing xanthan gum

It is widely used in skin care products and other cosmetics, including shampoos and conditioners. Often found in toothpastes and other personal care products. Xanthan gum is very common in liquid skin care formulations such as lotions and oral care products. Suitable for organic, natural and vegan cosmetics as it does not come from animals or inorganic/synthetic compounds.

According to European Union Regulation, the maximum permissible concentration of this component in finished cosmetic products is 10%, although the standard concentration does not exceed 0.5%.

Sources of Xanthan Gum

By nature, xanthan gum is an extracellular bacterial polysaccharide (exopolysaccharide) obtained by fermentation of the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris using sucrose. In the life cycle of these microorganisms (living in cruciferous plants), xanthan gum serves as protection against viruses and cell wall drying. During production, xanthan is first obtained using aerobic fermentation of Xanthomonas campestris in an aqueous solution of carbohydrates, a source of nitrogen. Next, the resulting product is pasteurized and precipitated with alcohol or purified by microfiltration.

The bacterial culture in which xanthan gum is produced is grown in large containers under conditions of careful control over air supply, mixing, chemical composition of the medium and its temperature.

Fermentation lasts about 4 days - then the polymer is extracted from the medium by adding isopropyl alcohol, dried and ground to obtain a powder that is already soluble in water or salt solution. It is noteworthy that the properties of xanthan gum can be adjusted by changing the living conditions of Xanthomonas campestris. The main chain of the polymer is identical to the cellulose molecule. The branches are residues of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid molecules, as well as pyruvic acid (pyruvate) and acetyl groups. The number of pyruvate groups determines the viscosity of aqueous solutions of xanthan, and for some industrial applications, acid groups are neutralized, converting xanthan to potassium, sodium or calcium salts. For the cosmetic industry, microorganisms are usually kept in a hydrocarbonate environment, the fermentation process is carried out with the addition of proteins or amino acids and nitrogen. The original product looks like a white powder that is highly soluble in water.