The history of fashion is a component of the entire development of human civilization, which very colorfully characterizes each individual era. At the dawn of evolution, clothing protected a person, and that was enough. Soon the protective function was complemented by an aesthetic one. This is how the very concept of “fashion” was gradually born. This article will discuss how fashion arose and how it developed.
Ancient Rome
For Western civilization, the history of fashionable clothing began with the Roman era. The inhabitants of Rome continued the traditions of the ancient Egyptians and also began to dedicate a separate color of attire to each of their deities, and purple robes could only be worn by patricians. The Roman toga became an example of a dress code. People were allowed into the Senate, court or stadium only wearing such clothes. A simple version of the robe was made from linen or wool. Expensive togas were made of silk or gold threads.
Clothing in the Middle Ages
Further, the history of fashion takes us to the Middle Ages. After the majestic attire of the Roman patricians, the outfits of the nobility of the Early Middle Ages look very simple, rather poor and faceless. This fact has its own explanation - the functionality of the clothes comes first here.
Let's talk about the clothes of common people. The main wardrobe item here is a long shirt. Moreover, both men and women wear them. Yarn for fabrics is made from the following natural materials:
- hemp;
- nettle.
Here you can recall Andersen’s fairy tale, where a sister sews a shirt for her brother from this plant. The situation changes dramatically after the start of the Crusades. Scientists consider the 11th-12th centuries to be the time when the first hints of fashion appeared.
The European community has been greatly transformed since the beginning of the Crusades. It was at this time that women's fashion emerged. A cult of the female body appears. This is displayed in an effort to emphasize its beauty and grace. Necklines appear, dresses become fitted. Long sleeves emphasize the grace of women's hands and smooth movements. The female image becomes gentle, airy and strongly contrasts with the male brutality.
A little later, in women's fashion there is a tendency to wear uncomfortable things for the sake of “beauty”. For several centuries, the following strange things have become trendy:
- Cone-shaped headdresses, some of which reached a meter in height.
- Shoes with very curved toes that needed to be tied up.
- Incredibly long trains that were worn exclusively by the nobility.
A huge leap in development occurred in the 14th century in France. It was here that the first sewing factories appeared and learned how to cut and model clothes. Such concepts as darts and folds appeared.
Renaissance Fashion
The Renaissance makes its contribution to the history of clothing. At this time, European ladies wear strange cone-shaped hats, to which a train of airy material is attached.
During the Renaissance, there was a trend to wear frame skirts. On the wave of popularity, they reached 7 meters in diameter. They are brought into fashion by Joan of Portugal, who thus wanted to hide her illegitimate pregnancy.
A new trend is slits on women's dresses, through which the undershirt is visible. It was fashionable among both ladies and men.
The Spaniards also contributed to the development of fashion. This nation, more than any other, is characterized by a certain stiffness. Since the mid-16th century, it was Spain that became a trend-setting country. Highly low-cut dresses give way to women's outfits with large starched collars. There are many layers appearing under the skirts. The concept of perfume appeared, which both men and women were very keen on. By the way, its appearance was dictated by the fact that it was difficult to wash every day, and I wanted to veil the unpleasant smell.
Fashionable curiosities of the Renaissance
No era is complete without fashionable oddities. The funniest ones were the puffy pants. They were short and round in shape. The inside of this type of men's clothing was stuffed with tow.
Wig fashion
The huge wigs that were in trend during the time of Louis XIV were said to be a home for mice and various insects. Let's talk in more detail about where the fashion for wigs came from. There is a version that they appeared after the French king was doused with slop from a window during a walk. At that time, people calmly poured them out, warning them three times by shouting: “Beware!” There is a version that after this the population began to cover their heads with hoods. However, over time, this part of the clothing passed on to jesters and plebeians. Therefore, the nobility decided to protect their heads in such an intricate way as wearing a huge wig.
At the end of the 16th century, wide-brimmed hats came into fashion. They were beautiful, but completely impractical. Remember the musketeers in France and the royalists in Great Britain.
The first fashion magazines
In the 17th century, the title of trendsetter again passed to France. In Paris, magazines with trends began to be published, which were now followed throughout the world. Fashion trends began to change much faster. The cut of dresses has become looser. Parisians were the first to wear bangs. Wigs did not go out of use, but now they were made from natural hair.
Russian fashion
At the same time (17th century), the concept of fashion appeared in Russia, but it was not so stunning, since at that time the royal decree established a ban on everything overseas and foreign. Peter the Great turned out to be a great fashionista. When power passed into his hands, he began to impose fashion trends from Germany on the citizens of his country. He even issued a decree on what exactly his courtiers should wear. Fashion magazines appeared in Russia in 1779. Now they could be used to trace how fashion was changing around the world.
First fashion designer
The profession of an artist who creates costumes appeared in 1820. Modern fashion historians consider this date to be the year of the emergence of official fashion. The need for a costume designer appeared in England when the clothing industry reached such impressive proportions that such a specialist was needed.
The first fashion designer was Charles Frederick Worth. He worked in Great Britain, but decided that he deserved more and went to Paris in 1845. In France, he has been working for five years in a company that sews and sells ready-made outfits. Having gained some experience, he takes a risk and opens his own ready-made dress salon. Worth does not become famous immediately.
The fame of a trendsetter came to him after Napoleon's wife, Eugenia Montijo, drew attention to the dress that Charles made for the wife of the Austrian ambassador. The outfit seemed something unusual and unearthly, since Worth used grass, sparkles, tulle, pink hearts, and daisy buds as decoration.
Let's sum it up: what has changed in fashion since the advent of the New Age?
Radical changes begin with the period of bourgeois revolutions:
- Men's trousers get a start in life thanks to the Jacobin Club.
- During the time of Napoleon, the traditions of antiquity returned to the water.
- The main attribute of femininity - the corset - appears in 1880.
- In the 19th century, there was another event in the history of fashion: men now had a jacket.
- Hat fashion is developing at an unreal pace. During the season, about 30 current models are replaced:
- caps;
- bibi hats;
- turbans;
- berets
Oh, this 20th century...
The history of fashion is not just evolving here. She is moving by leaps and bounds. There is a deafening breakthrough in its development. With the advent of dances such as the Charleston and tango, the volume of dresses was reduced and the length of skirts was greatly reduced.
Nowadays it is very difficult to meet a girl with a braid. Mostly young ladies cut their hair short and wear flirty hats, for example, “tulips”. The legendary Coco Chanel becomes a trendsetter. She presents to the world that thing that no self-respecting lady's wardrobe can do without - the little black dress.
First bra
The bra was first patented in 1903 under the name “bust holder”, but at that moment it did not receive recognition and distribution, since corsets were still worn at that time. He simply wasn't needed. This underwear was first used in 1910 in Bakst's costumes for the production of Scheherazade.
These models were soft, their design did not lift the bust, but only supported it. At that time, fashion did not require this, since boyish figures for women were in trend. The fashion trend was called “le garcon”.
The boom of Slavic fashion and beauty in Europe
The paradox is that while in Russia after the October Revolution the fashion for everything ethnic was being eradicated, in the West they turned to Russian traditions. All this is due to the talented emigrants who hid here and began to share their knowledge and skill in making clothes.
Europeans really liked such a headdress as a kokoshnik. At one time, hats of bright red color, stylized as it, even came into fashion.
What made the Russian style of clothing stand out?
Characteristic features of the Russian style:
- Oblique clasp.
- Embroidery with imitation of Russian folk ornament.
- Silk dresses painted with bright aniline dyes that resembled Russian splints.
- A stand-up collar, which was nicknamed boyar.
- Long, wide coats, decorated with fur and incredibly beautiful embroidery.
Russian women began to open uvruars - artels (ateliers) in Europe. Later, the first full-fledged Russian fashion houses appeared, which specialized exclusively in folk style. Such was the establishment that bore the name "Paul Caret". Its founder in London, and then in the capital of France, was Princess Lobanova-Rostovskaya.
In the West, bead embroidery, which was performed by Russian craftswomen, was most valued at that time. The largest house of Slavic fashion was an establishment called “Iteb”. Now this building houses the headquarters of TM L'oreal Paris.
Russian fashion models in Europe
It is thanks to Russian beauties, who did not hesitate to appear on the catwalk and become trendsetters, that the craft of a fashion model has ceased to be something shameful. Thanks to emigrants, society's attitude towards models has changed.
It was the aristocrats, who fled the revolution and were forced to earn their own bread with their own labor, who with dignity became the first so-called top models of such legendary fashion houses as Lanvin, Chanel, and Poiret. Russian ladies amazed the audience with their manners, excellent education, knowledge of languages, beauty and refinement. They raised the profession of fashion models to heights.
Today I was looking through various retro photographs that depicted the history of people’s lives, and then I thought that it would be nice to look at photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how, interestingly, fashionable girls dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review of fashion by decade. Let me make a reservation right away that I will not give examples of women who were popular at a certain time; it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just discuss fashion.
Let's start with the 10s of the 20th century.
Corsets have been holding women back for years, making their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and making life harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant illnesses due to too tightly tightened “shells” - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of a simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses came into fashion - that is why the tenth years are remembered as the years of “liberation” of women from the oppression of one of the most inconvenient items of clothing, and Paul Poiret became a real savior for ladies of high society.
In the tens, Russian chic was in fashion - the “Russian Seasons”, which were brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of haute couture from Parisians.
It was then that all the now familiar attributes of “chic life” in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.
We smoothly move on to the fashion of the 20s
During this period, sports and male sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, while female forms began to gradually lose relevance and popularity. The ideal is a thin lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called a fashion reformer and revolutionary of this period. Along with her, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille”, fur fashion house “Jacques Heim” and others.
Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of decorations, and embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called “Art Deco”, and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.
It was a style of decorating and adorning things. Decorative elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.
Shoes trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. "Art Deco" is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with the geometric forms of cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.
Such a combination of incompatible things, mixed in one style.
As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:
- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- a fashionable straight-cut coat tapering towards the bottom and with a fur collar;
- pajama pants and pajamas are in fashion, which were worn to the beach at that time;
- the first swimsuits for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were made from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers, but also shorts are appearing;
- the appearance of the classic Chanel little black dress.
30s fashion
During these times, the cutting of clothes became more complex. The quality of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing has improved markedly. Hollywood is a trendsetter in the USA. But even here, companies began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These companies distributed new fashion models in millions of copies.
Long skirts became the standard of fashion during the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses lengthened their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached mid-calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends independently lengthened their clothes. They sewed on wedges and various frills.
A very popular piece of clothing in the 1930s was the women's street suit, which came in a wide variety of variations. Outerwear - coats and jackets - were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.
Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shaped lines and finishes. The cut of suits became more complex and began to rely on geometry, giving the silhouette clarity.
Decorative details and decorations were widely used in the costume. A hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were selected very strictly. As a rule, they were black or brown, and in summer they were white.
Accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years could not afford anything else except a hat or a handbag.
40s fashion
The dominant fashion trend of the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, and puffed sleeves. It is worth noting that at that time, striped clothing was the most popular. As war broke out and the world became militarized, fashion in the 1940s underwent significant changes. Women no longer have time to think about makeup and replenishing their wardrobe.
During this period, the appearance of outfits was significantly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.
Floral designs are coming back into fashion: ornaments and small flowers have become the main decoration of fabrics and dresses made from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to be introduced into fashion. The military style, which is still popular today, became a discovery of the war period.
At the same time, a new shoe model was released: shoes with stiletto heels.
Also new was the production of turtleneck blouses; these models with a high turtleneck deservedly received recognition from the fashionistas of those times.
50s fashion
In the post-war years, social differences became noticeably worse. Wives again turned into a symbol of the well-being of their spouses, as a kind of showcase for others. A mandatory ritual for every woman is visiting a hair salon and applying makeup. The ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully prepared already early in the morning: with a perfect hairstyle, in heels and makeup, stand at the stove or vacuum the carpet.
Even in the Soviet Union, where the lifestyle was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to have your hair styled at a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to become fashionable with particular rapidity.
The '50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, wide-shouldered silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, there were special requirements for the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.
To meet these standards, women wore constriction corsets, placed fabric or cotton wool in their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Klara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.
Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the 50s style resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which a multi-layered petticoat was worn, high stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings were a must-have accessory to complete the look and were extremely expensive. But women went to great lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties who follow fashion trends. It was difficult to buy fabrics at that time; no more than a certain amount of them was sold per person, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt to fit the “new silhouette”, it took from nine to forty meters of material!
60s fashion
The legendary 60s are the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. The new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film “Babette Goes to War” with Brigitte Bardot in the title role was released. A casually tousled hairstyle with a backcomb, despite the fact that it takes fashionistas a lot of time to create it, is becoming super popular.
Accessories became very popular: necklaces made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, “macro” that covered half of the face.
The most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born in London - the miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, the legendary Mary Quant showed her first collection of mini-length items. The new style, called “London style,” very quickly conquered young people around the world.
The 60s are the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.
The fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, costume jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go-go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of fashion for mini lengths and the dance style of the same name.
Fashion of the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately casual and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bucket bags slung over their shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.
70s fashion
In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.
The motto of the 70s was the expression “Anything is possible!” For progressive and active young people, the couturiers presented several styles, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.
Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, and shirt dresses.
In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has emerged, consisting of the required number of things that can be combined with each other. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.
Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created convenient, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.
80s fashion
The fashion of the 80s intertwined retro images, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the ongoing boom in sports.
Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, breakdancing, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.
The list of iconic items from the decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari style clothing, kimono, batwing and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, distressed denim fabric, so-called Varenka, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of “wet hair,” cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair in decorative colors, such as “eggplant,” highlights “ feathers." A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.
The massiveness of the 1980s can be described as excess. Everything is, as it were, “too” - too narrow, too voluminous, too flashy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.
90s fashion
The 90s style in clothing, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to choosing clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image changes, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main call of the nineties is “be who you are!” In those days, denim clothes were given special importance - only the lazy did not wear them. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called “denim”, since every person had more than one copy of a similar thing.
In the nineties, unisex fashion spread all over the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes. 
The nineties were the time of sneakers and flats. This unisex style is very popular with large Italian and American companies, such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when, along with strict asceticism, the costume contains deliberate theatricality with a bright range of colors. Fashion changes depending on social orientation and territoriality, so in Europe bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.
The main fashion emphasis of the nineties was not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky-white skin. Body culture is flourishing as in the times of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and fashionistas not only visit sports clubs, which appeared thanks to them, but also actively visit beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Supermodels from fashion catwalks are becoming role models; television and fashion magazines have made a significant contribution to this.
Well. This concludes the review. I would like to say that of all times, my preferences are closer to the 30s, 50s and 70s. In general, everything new is long forgotten old.
The historical development of fashion and style in costume is determined by a specific era. A suit, according to stylists and fashion designers, is the most accurate reflection of a person’s perception of the world and time.
Fashion history: From era to era
The world history of costume, fashion and style is quite rich and diverse. Each nation has its own expression of fashion, which is determined by national traditions, established tastes, cultural and scientific achievements of the country.
We can talk about the emergence of fashion in its modern sense starting from the 14th century. France is called the birthplace of fashion, namely Paris. During that period, one of the first elements of women's costume was a high headdress, invented by noble women from European countries.
Headdresses of that time were structures made of fabric, which were attached to high cones with the help of pins, which served as the basis for this element of women's wardrobe.
Fashion history: costume styles in antiquity, gothic and renaissance
In the era of antiquity, the costume consisted of only two elements - a chiton and a himation. They were rectangular pieces of fabric that were draped around the body and fastened with buckles. Clothing in ancient Greece was distinguished by a high aesthetic level; even then, when creating costumes, certain proportions and harmony of lines were observed.
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The Gothic style played an important role in the history of costume fashion. It was the main style of medieval Europe in the period from the 12th to the 15th centuries. This direction is distinguished by emphasizing vertical lines in clothing. The Gothic style women's dress was characterized by a high waistline, an elongated neckline and narrow long sleeves.
The bottom of the dress was represented by a long flared skirt, which smoothly turned into a train. For men, fashionable clothing - a suit in the Gothic style, was represented by a short tunic with a cloak, trousers, stockings and pointed shoes.
The history of fashion and costume style during the Renaissance is known for the widespread use of expensive fabrics in women's clothing - mainly silk and velvet. Clothes for women during this historical period become as convenient and comfortable as possible, as preference is given to a loose cut. Tailors sew outfits that expose arms and neck
Since the 16th century, the Spanish costume has served as a role model for European countries. For the first time, a dress with a long skirt on a frame appears in a woman's wardrobe. Women's hairstyles are often decorated with nets of gold cords and pearl threads. Men's suits during this period were lavishly decorated with bows, ribbons and slits.
Fashionable clothing styles: costumes from the Baroque, Classical and Empire eras
The history of styles in costume is also known for such a direction as Baroque, which developed in art and clothing in the 17th-18th centuries. The outfits of this time were distinguished by their excessive luxury, pomp and pretentiousness.
Items of both women's and men's wardrobes were weighted with many decorative elements. Lush multi-layered dresses made of expensive natural fabrics were in fashion. A striking element of men's clothing was a wide-brimmed hat decorated with ostrich feathers and boots with cuffs.
Baroque was replaced by classicism; this style differed from the previous one in the severity of its lines, clarity of proportions and simplicity of forms. Women's dresses are characterized by a skirt that is greatly inflated on the sides and is richly decorated with ruffles and flounces. A camisole with rich embroidery and a frill collar appears in the men's wardrobe.
In the 19th century, with the advent of such a movement as the Empire style in art, women freed themselves from the uncomfortable corset. Women began to wear light dresses made of weightless fabrics - muslin, cambric. The dress tightly fitted the upper part of the female body, emphasizing the chest and waist line.
In recent years, fashion has changed very much and quickly. Other trends and tastes are replacing things we are already accustomed to. People try to look beautiful and feel comfortable at the same time. This trend has not spared outerwear either. Nowadays, women's down jackets have become one of the most desired winter purchases among people. No wonder! A jacket filled with down warms very well and keeps you warm, and is also very light. How to choose and what to wear this duvet with, look at Clasna
History of styles in art and costume: romanticism and modernism
The history of styles in art and costume after the Empire style is known for such a movement as romanticism. At this time, women's dresses again become lush and voluminous. Important details were dropped shoulders and wide sleeves, which gave the image seductiveness and tenderness. Men wear a tailcoat and a top hat as a headdress.
The period of the late 19th – early 20th centuries in the history of art is known as Art Nouveau. It was marked by a rapid change in the shape of the dress, from light to heavy, with puffy sleeves and bustles. Such details visually enlarged the lower torso.
Modern clothing is characterized by simplicity and artistic expressiveness, a wide variety of materials and decorative elements used. This allows each woman to emphasize her individuality and uniqueness.
The question of what fashion is is on the minds of many women. We all know how quickly trends in shoes, clothing and manicure change, and we try to follow them. However, few of the beautiful ladies understand what this concept includes and where it originates its history.
Fashion history
Answering the question of how the history of fashion began is not at all easy. Wardrobe items that all representatives of one or another civilization wore existed for a very long time, however, at that time people did not think about how to dress beautifully and attractively. For them, wearing clothes was just a way to keep warm and hide their private parts from prying eyes. Any new items or foreign outfits were perceived with hostility, so there was no desire to change or transform anything.
History of fashion
Experts believe that the history of fashion and style began only in the 14th century. The capital of France, Paris, is called the birthplace of these concepts, although residents of other European countries were also instantly captivated by them. Representatives of the fair sex began to show imagination and tried their best to stand out from the crowd, creating original jewelry for themselves. The most striking representative of that time was the “hat with horns,” which was a fabric structure to which cones were attached in a special way.
Subsequently, trends in women's clothing began to change with each new season. So, with the onset of cold weather, beautiful ladies dressed in velvet, and in the summer - in products made from natural silk. Gradually, the cut of wardrobe items began to change - some models became a little more revealing than the previous ones. Techniques that are still well known today have appeared that make the image of a fashionista charming and seductive.
Trendsetters
Although the history of women's fashion originates in France, its main legislator during the first two centuries of its formation was Italy, or more precisely, Venice. Venetian beauties set the tone for dresses and hairstyles, introduce false hair and hairpieces into the trend, and pay special attention to accessories. Thus, already in the 15th century, almost all young women wore the thinnest neckerchiefs and velvet bedspreads framing their faces.
A little later, from the middle of the 16th century, Spain became the trendsetter of fashion trends. Prim Spanish women promote closed and chaste outfits - dresses with a closed collar, long sleeves and high starched collars. Skirts were mostly fluffy and long; there was no talk of any slits or asymmetrical hemlines revealing bare legs at that time. Meanwhile, young ladies have a new way of seducing men - all kinds of fragrances have come into fashion, adding mystery and sexuality to the image of their owner.
Finally, in the 17th century, fashion began to be dictated by the country responsible for its appearance - France. Parisian women were considered universally recognized for a very long time - more than two hundred years. During this time, trends changed a huge number of times, but women all over the world completely obeyed the opinion of Parisians and gladly copied their outfits, adding practically nothing of their own.
Since the 20th century, states have ceased to be the legislators of current trends. Their place was taken by fashion houses that managed to gain wide popularity. Branded brands began to appear all over the world, some of which managed to exist only for a few years, while others, on the contrary, stayed on the fashion Olympus for a long time. Today, famous stylists and fashion trendsetters are scattered across all continents, but most fashionistas still focus on French and Italian couturiers.
What is fashion and style?
When thinking about what fashion is, some women confuse this concept with style. In fact, fashion refers to the temporary dominance of one style or another over others. Almost always, this term refers only to a specific locality, for example, a region, city or state, but not to the whole world as a whole. Modern women's fashion extends not only to clothes and shoes, but also to makeup, manicure, hairstyles, fragrances, accessories and other areas.
What is high fashion?
This term appeared in Paris in the 19th century. It has a special meaning - we are not talking about the production of mass clothing, which is available to most representatives of the fair sex all over the world, but about the production of luxury wardrobe items, each of which is not cheap at all.
Nowadays, when answering the question of what haute couture is in fashion, the products of such gurus as Chanel Haute Couture, Couture Atelier Versace, Gautier Paris and others come to mind. The products of these manufacturers are distinguished by the highest price, complexity of manufacture, unusually high quality of workmanship, use of precious stones and other expensive materials in their work, and so on.
With the advent of such brands, women and girls learned what a fashion show was and began to attend such events with pleasure. At each show, more and more people began to appear interested in current trends, popular trends and new products. After each fashion show, experts compare the demonstrated models and determine which outfits should be preferred in a particular season.
What is a fashion trend?
When discussing what modern fashion is, one cannot help but highlight the concept of “trend”. It refers to a current trend that should be given maximum attention at the moment. As a rule, no trend stays at the top of the fashion Olympus for too long - in most cases, with the start of a new season, all such trends recede into the background, and new trends take their place. Not all women know what macro trends in fashion are. The macrotrend subordinates all current trends in the season and correlates with a certain era, for example, the 80s or 2000s.
What is a capsule collection in fashion?
To promote and sell their products, stylists and designers around the world are ready to do a lot. Since competition in this area is extremely high, brand representatives have to resort to various tricks. Often, fashion brands create a so-called capsule collection - a line of products that are developed in collaboration with a famous designer or world celebrity. Such models, as a rule, sell very well and attract increased attention from buyers to other models of the brand.
What is a must have in fashion?
In the fashion world, there are many different concepts that cause misunderstandings and questions among women. Although most of the fair sex are aware of what it means to follow fashion and try with all their might to please this capricious lady, not all young ladies understand why they should wear this or that in a particular season.
In fact, many trends appear as a result of fashionistas' craze for a certain item, while one of them - a must-have - is declared by fashion industry experts. This concept has a special meaning - it denotes the most important trend or “squeak” for a particular season. In some cases, must-have remains for several years - there are no restrictions for this.
What is a bow in fashion?
Another question that you can hear from beautiful ladies is “What are bows in fashion?” This word is very often found on the pages of fashion magazines or heard from the lips of observers of various television programs. In fact, onion is a synonym for the word “image”, however, it is not exactly the same thing. To form a look, absolutely every detail is important - every element of clothing, shoes, accessories, hairstyle, makeup, and so on. The word look denotes how a person looks at a given specific moment, while the concept of “image” can extend over a long period of time.
The most famous fashion houses
There are a huge number of fashion brands in the world, each of which has its fans and detractors. Among all this diversity, there are both little-known brands and real gurus, whose names are heard all over the world. Fashion shows of the most famous and influential brands included in the TOP bring together designers, experts, world celebrities, representatives of the richest families in the world and many others. Currently, the rating of brands is headed by the following names:
- Chanel.
- Hermes.
- Gucci.
- Louis Vuitton.
- Fendi
What is ugly fashion?
Some women, thinking about what fashion in clothing is, say that they will never follow it and will dress the way they like. Indeed, many current trends look strange, original and wonderful. Thus, on the catwalks you can see shoes that are associated with orthopedic diseases and disabilities, trousers and jeans with an unusually high waist, making the figure ugly and disproportionate, dresses “made of rags” and much more.
Most girls who see this for the first time have a question about what ugly fashion is and why it is needed. After all, not a single fashionista who wants to look bright, beautiful and attractive will wear something that does not decorate her, but, on the contrary, disfigures her. Meanwhile, the task of such things is to make the image unusual and attract the attention of others to its owner. They, without any doubt, cope with this, which is why they are gaining enormous popularity among young ladies who love.
In the history of fashion and style, many interesting facts can be identified, for example:
- periodically repeating patterns. Plagiarism in fashion is a regular and recurring phenomenon. Any thing that has ceased to be popular now can be seen again on fashion catwalks in a few decades;
Nothing is more connected with a person’s life, with the peculiarities of his life and culture, than a suit. Having emerged as a means of protecting a person from the influences of the external environment, throughout the history of human society it has reflected and continues to reflect changes in aesthetic ideals and public taste.
Clothing satisfied not only utilitarian human needs, but also purely aesthetic needs. It shaped the external appearance of people, indirectly reflecting their internal qualities: character, habits and, of course, artistic taste. When did fashion actually begin? Naturally, much later than the emergence of a stable national costume. Of course, he also changed, but these changes happened so slowly that he had nothing in common with our fast-moving fashion, and most importantly, these changes were spontaneous, and the only thing that caused them was the appearance of new materials.
Many Soviet art historians, including E. Wende, believe that fashion was born in the 12th-13th centuries with the development of international relations and increased trade exchanges, when elements began to appear in clothing, the use of which cannot be explained by necessity or the development of aesthetic taste: for example, a hat a meter high, trains a fathom long, ultra-tight men's trousers in which it was impossible to sit down, or the turned-up toes of shoes tied with cords and chains.
Some Western scientists call a later date, defining fashion as one of the phenomena of neomania (mania of novelty), which arose in our civilization with the birth of capitalism.
It's hard to say who is right in this debate. One thing is important: almost until the end of the 19th century, the circle of people involved in the orbit of fashion was extremely small. Not everyone could enjoy its fruits or respond to its suggestions.
The costume of a slave, farmer, or artisan was always simple to the point of primitiveness. Until the 13th century, this was most often a loincloth or a long, knee-length shirt. But the clothes of the nobility were replete with such “finds” of tailors, such extraordinary details that if we take as a basis one of the comic signs of fashion - ignoring the basic requirements for clothing - medieval dressmakers achieved colossal success, and the authority of fashion trendsetters who offered such inconvenient styles, was incredibly tall. True, it should be noted that it was supported by such serious arguments as the army, the court and the church, since the royal courts most often acted as trendsetters at that time.
For example, in the 16th century, the Spanish court introduced the fashion for short puffy pants. To make them more round, the pants were stuffed with horsehair or tow. A cover made of expensive fabric was put on top. How “comfortable” it was in such pants in hot weather is not worth explaining.
At the court of Louis XIV, hats were worn in the hand. Due to his introduction of huge wigs into fashion, the hat became a completely useless attribute of the costume. But at the Burgundian court in the 15th century, dandies wore two hats. One on the head, the second on a strap behind the back. The history of fashion knows many such casual garments, although I consider the top of everything to be the skirts offered to men by the Dutch ambassador to Paris, Reingrav van Salm. Despite the absurdity of this skirt, which was worn over pants, the fashion for it lasted for almost forty years.
In any case, each new fashionable proposal worked for only one purpose - to emphasize the privileged position of the nobility and its rejection of work in any form.
You don't have to look far for examples. Let us recall, for example, the boyar feryaz - a special type of caftan made of expensive fabric. They sewed it on a lining, sometimes with fur. The feryaz was wide at the hem, up to three meters, with long sleeves hanging down to the ground. They put it on in the following way: they put only one arm into the sleeve, collecting it into many ruffles, while the other sleeve was lowered to the ground. Thanks to this caftan, the expression “to work carelessly” appeared.
Hundreds and thousands of tailors and artists over the centuries have come up with completely unusual styles, designed to emphasize the place that the feudal lord occupied in the hierarchical ladder. Back in the 13th century, the first laws against luxury were issued, limiting the splendor of the clothes of vassals in comparison with overlords. At the same time, laws on ranks in clothing appeared, prescribing strict restrictions in the choice of fabrics and costume shapes for various classes of society. For example, the burghers, unlike the nobles, did not have the right to wear silk clothes, long trains, etc. In a word, fashion was at the complete disposal of the palaces, not the streets.
The same situation developed in Rus'. Noble nobles wore closed caftans with multi-colored embroidery; cloaks were made from expensive materials, which were fastened with a large gold or silver buckle with precious stones. Women did not lag behind the men. Sundresses, which appeared in women's wardrobes in the 14th century in rich families, were made from oriental fabrics that Russia had just become acquainted with - brocade, satin, taffeta. Kokoshniks and kichkas were decorated with pearls.
In principle, the same forms of clothing existed among other segments of the population, with the only difference being that the poor sewed them from canvas and homespun. The European costume introduced by Peter I somewhat displaced the folk costume, but this affected only the wealthy strata of Russian society. The masses remained, in spite of everything, faithful to traditional clothing, the traditions of which passed from century to century.
Perhaps for the first time, the street dictated the fashion for palaces during the Great French Revolution. After all, the appearance of men's trousers dates back to this period. During the revolution, trousers were a unique uniform for members of the Jacobin Club (before that, only peasants and sailors wore them). The Jacobins wore trousers to distinguish themselves from the aristocrats, who at that time wore short pants - culottes. 15-20 years passed (the pace of fashion was somewhat slow then), and the whole world recognized the convenience and functionality of trousers.
The French Revolution! The whole world heard a call for Freedom, Equality, Fraternity. Inspired by the example of the democrats of antiquity, trying to bring to the present day not only the ideas of democracy, strict morals, but also aesthetic ideals, the Convention ordered Jacques Louis David costumes for the citizens of the republic. Unfortunately, the artist turned them out to be too theatrical and did not enter the everyday life of Parisians. However, these ideas were not completely forgotten, and after some time antiquity became popular again.
During the Directory period, on the streets and boulevards of the French capital one could meet people dressed in the costumes of ancient heroes. Men wore a short, knee-length tunic, cloak and sandals. Of course, women couldn’t keep up with them either. The tunic became their most popular clothing. By the way, women turned out to be more consistent, because with the onset of cold weather, men returned to their usual warm suit.
In general, it should be noted that this time was characterized by an extraordinary mixture of styles and trends: from the “victim’s hairstyle” - it was worn by the relatives of those killed on the guillotine - to the “dog ears” hairstyle, which consisted of a mass of long, unevenly cut hair covering a large part of the face.
After 1789, the bourgeoisie took over the baton of Parisian elegance from the aristocracy. The expansion of the clientele immediately caused an increase in the workshop of couturiers, who gradually managed to seize power over the minds of Parisians and Parisian women. If earlier tailors only fulfilled the orders of their clients, now they risked imposing their proposals on them, which were more likely to obey the moral requirements of the time than the true purpose of the clothes. Class elegance - the embodiment of futility and artificiality - reigned until the beginning of our century.
With the expansion of the circle of consumers, there is a need for specialized clothing: for work, leisure, holidays, sports, and travel. A new concept of clothing emerged where women were given freedom of choice. Fashion fully satisfied the demand, and although it sometimes followed a roundabout path, it still moved forward and forward.
But then the English suit appeared on the stage - one of the revolutionary innovations of that time. The island position of England, the very colonialist style of the era, frequent travel, the lifestyle of the bourgeoisie in power, sports - all this required a new, comfortable, practical suit. England was much more democratic than neighboring France, and most importantly, the representatives of its ruling class were much more practical. Even the nobles were engaged in making money.
Fashion in England in the 18th century developed very energetically. It should be noted that the English style was initially received with hostility in France. Redingote was declared a fellow traveler of loose morals. But, despite all the controversy surrounding the proposals of English tailors, after a while French distrust of British fashion gave way to complete Anglomania. French cognac began to be replaced with Scotch whiskey, Parisian convertibles replaced London carriages. It became fashionable to walk the streets not with poodles, but with bulldogs. The French even stopped grazing, and finally all of Paris dressed in redingotes.
English fashion was adopted so quickly and so unconditionally that to a foreigner who considered Paris to be a trendsetter, it quite naturally seemed that all these new phenomena were the inventions of flighty Frenchmen.
Nineteenth century. Powerful technological progress, changes in the social composition of society, and a sharp increase in urban population create the conditions for completing the process of forming a unified European urban costume. It is increasingly losing its features of local and national identity. The development of fashion is very intensive, but mainly affects women's clothing.
Many at that time were literally shocked by what they considered to be such a frequent change in tastes. For example, the Russian magazine “Library of Theater and Art” wrote:
“There is only one thing that does not occur particularly often in the 19th century: that some fashion, be it in painting or in home furnishings, in clothing or mood, forgets all other fashions and captures everyone for a long time. Now is the time of eclecticism. Fashion comes and goes every now and then. And until the very end of this century, unbridled joy reigns over something of one’s own, due to the absence of traditions (of course, only apparent), everything unfashionable, everything historical is tyrannically driven into the very back closet of the house or brain apparatus, and the unstable tribe of the transitional era constantly rushes about between Baroque and Zapfstil, between idealism and romanticism, between Frenchmania, Hellenism and Anglomania. Is this motley fashion really destined to continue in the future, and the old fashions will be joined by another new one - the fashion of our time, the style of youth? Everything that is viable becomes fashion, and this can be comforting for now; only that which does not carry within itself any germ of power will not attract followers and will not break through.”
At the same time, such a bacchanalia in women's fashion did not seem to affect the costume of the “strong half” of humanity at all. On the contrary, it stabilized more and more and became conservative. Men resolutely refused to wear colors and decorations.
It was in the 19th century that a practical everyday jacket arose, very similar to the current one. Since then, changing only the names, it has remained a staple element of men's clothing. Little by little, the vest becomes less colorful and bright, and the only colorful spot remains the tie.
The color scheme was also very sparse, muted and consisted of black, gray, brown and blue tones. Simplicity and unpretentiousness have become the main principles of men's clothing.
The beginning of the 20th century brought about the emergence of the Art Nouveau style. Extravagant clothes made of velvet, taffeta, and chiffon came into fashion. Once again, women are styling their hair in updos. Huge hats lavishly decorated with ostrich feathers, artificial flowers and stuffed birds. Swan's down boa. Luxurious stoles and chiffon scarves covering bare shoulders.
The era of decadence brought with it new, sophisticated forms, sophistication and sophistication, pretentiousness and deliberate disregard for the worries and anxieties of their time.
One of the fashion researchers, V. Fred, in his work “Psychology of Fashion” in 1907, described the ideals that existed in bourgeois society: “...Less than two years passed when they first started talking about the Pre-Raphaelites in Germany and Austria; A few people here and there, in poetry and painting, created for themselves the ideal of a tender, untouched, flower-like woman. With love and insight, an image was created from these aspirations, the opposite of a woman by vocation and a woman-mother. "Painful features" were already intended in advance for such a fragile, wonderful beauty, albeit timid, pale and barren; the sweet aroma of the rarest flowers, like languid orchids, long draping clothes, a quiet voice, an unknown sadness before the coming misfortune, a vague consciousness of duty, renunciation of the world - these are the elements of this beauty.”
With the war, Art Nouveau style goes out of fashion. It is replaced by simple clothes and short hairstyles. Trousers for women are firmly in fashion. This was explained by the fact that during the war, many women had to do dirty, hard work, which passed to them after millions of men went to the front. Women drove trams, worked at machines in factories and factories, worked as electricians, and collected bread. Work clothes were not considered part of fashion. On the contrary, it was rather “anti-fashion” in the sense of its anti-aestheticity, a uniform. And yet, trousers have entered the fashion dictionary, just like certain elements of military uniforms.
Women after the war became more confident and independent. Many of them no longer wanted to be housewives, cooks, nurses or dressmakers. As a result of many years of rationing their food, they became slimmer and fitter. In the post-war period, sportswear became popular, making it easier to live and work. Business, casual fashion became the main direction of suit development for the next decade.
Analyzing the development of costume during this period, art critic N. Kaminskaya writes: “A new type of female beauty is a woman-boy, thin, long-legged, flat-chested, with narrow hips, without an emphasized waist, with a boyish haircut. This is no longer a defenseless, weak creature , cared for by a man. Her appearance is determined, adaptable to working and living conditions. However, there is also a special femininity in it: beautiful, smooth skin, brightly painted lips, thinly lined eyes and eyebrows."
A new stage in the history of fashion began after the Great October Socialist Revolution. During the difficult times of revolutionary changes, of course, the question of the problems of clothing as a special art was not raised. The people and the country faced many important and pressing tasks. But the history of Soviet modeling and clothing dates back to the October days of 1917.
The revolution, changing the internal content of life, also affected its external forms, in particular clothing. The victorious class, the proletariat, brought a qualitatively different attitude to the world of things. Citizens of the workers' and peasants' state, people of freed labor, needed a costume that was in tune with the ideals of the coming era.
As T. Strizhenova notes in her book “From the History of Soviet Costume,” “The Great October Socialist Revolution for the first time in world history erased the social differentiation of costume. A new concept arose - a mass suit for workers. Differences in the nature of clothing are now associated not with social issues, but with living and working conditions (city and countryside), climate (regions of the north, south, Far East), cultural and national traditions of the peoples that make up the Soviet state.” The beginning was extremely difficult. Intervention, counter-revolution, famine, and epidemics were added to the difficulties of post-war devastation. And yet, even in this tense time, many were already thinking about how a person in the new society would be dressed.
In 1919, in a country with a population of millions, there were only ten sewing associations, most of which worked for the army. These small factories, naturally, could not cope with the demands of the domestic market. There was a shortage of fabrics; textile enterprises produced mainly linen, canvas, soldiers' cloth, low grade wool, flannel, garusa, calico and calico.
The equipment was also bad. The bulk were made up of antediluvian machines with hand and foot drive. There weren't enough staff. Among the garment workers there were many people who had previously had nothing to do with clothing production. There was no experience in working on costumes for the masses, such as, for example, in Western countries. Before the revolution, the entire Russian clothing industry practically consisted of ateliers and handicraft workshops.
This was the starting point from which Soviet modeling had to begin. And yet, despite these difficulties, the task of creating a domestic clothing industry was put on the agenda. Two years after the revolution, the Central Institute of the Garment Industry was organized. The memorandum said about him: “The transition to the socialist construction of production puts forward the need to eliminate small-scale artisanal workshops and create large factory production enterprises with the best technical and sanitary-hygienic equipment based on the least expenditure of labor energy and neutralization of harmful production conditions, on the one hand, and establishing new forms of clothing in relation to hygiene, convenience, beauty and grace - on the other.”
In 1922, the country's first fashion house, the Fashion Atelier, was founded in Moscow, originally called the Center for the Development of a New Soviet Costume. Among its creators were Olga Senicheva-Kashchenko - the first director of the Fashion Atelier, Vera Mukhina - the future famous sculptor, Ekaterina Pribylskaya, who later became a major specialist in the field of applied art, easel painter and theater decorator Alexandra Ekster, famous painters B. Kustodiev, I. Grabar, K. Petrov-Vodkin.
A special place in the history of Soviet modeling is rightfully given to Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova. In the past, the empress's dressmaker, Lamanova, whose fame crossed the borders of Russia, without a moment's hesitation, immediately accepted the revolution, devoting all her talent, all her experience, all her strength to serving the people.
With her works she paved the way for the creation of a domestic, socialist school. Her articles and statements became the first theoretical substantiation of the principles of this school. Lamanova’s formula “What is the suit for - its purpose, what is the suit made of - its material, for whom is it made - the figure and how is it made - what is its shape” was fundamental for many Soviet designers.
One of the tasks of the Art Workshop of Modern Costume, headed by Lamanova, was to create simple and functional clothing for working people. Nadezhda Lamanova demanded simplification, but not primitivization. She was practically the first fashion designer to appeal to such a wide audience. No artist in the world has ever worked for such a customer. To make the clothes of the people interesting, varied, beautiful and at the same time practical and comfortable - no one had ever set such a goal before.
For the first time in history, fashion designers turned to the broad masses; hundreds of workers and peasants, citizens of the new world, became customers and consumers of model houses. We can safely say that today’s school of Soviet modeling is a natural continuation of the traditions laid down back in the 20s by Lamanova and her associates.
