Most floral fragrances are distinguished by tenderness, sensuality and romanticism. That is why they are preferred to wear by the fair sex. Men's floral perfumes are rare pieces of perfume collections. In them, notes of plants are additionally played up with rough leather, tobacco or resinous woody nuances to make the fragrance sound more masculine.
Everyone is recommended to buy floral perfumes - a huge selection of compositions will allow you to choose the smell according to your mood, character, image and occasion. Thick and rich tuberose will be an excellent companion for an evening event, sparkling neroli will look great in summer, a juicy tiare will evoke memories of a summer vacation, powdery violet will slay a gentleman on a romantic date, and green tea will give a feeling of purity and freshness.
Marina de Bourbon Fleur de Lys , DKNY Pure Verbena , Roberto Verino Very Verino and Burberry Touch can give a feeling of closeness to nature and allow you to mentally move to a green flower meadow. They are dominated by chords of galbanum, chamomile, chrysanthemum, greenery, leaves, vetiver and tea, creating fantasy landscapes of flowering meadows, where you can forget about the problems of everyday life, plunging into sweet dreams.
Transparent and rich, intoxicating and refreshing, romantic and dreamy floral-fruity perfumes will appeal to playful coquettes and seductresses. Such perfumes are in the range of all popular brands:
They are considered the most feminine and quite versatile: they can be warm, fresh, cold, sweet or slightly spicy. Notes of white flowers are the most popular with perfumers.
Floral fragrances
Perfumes with this fragrance are considered romantic, sweet and feminine. If a special holiday or meeting is expected, then you should pay attention to flower arrangements.
Notes of violet, rose, lilac, jasmine, narcissus and lily of the valley are perfectly combined. Such compositions can be divided into several different categories of floral-chypre, floral-citrus, and fruity-floral perfumes. Such smells do not exist in nature, and to some extent they are unique.
Touch of Pink
Cheerful, floral and youthful perfume that gives a delightful fragrance suitable for autumn and winter as a vivid memory of carefree summer days. The scent combines notes of violet, coriander, orange, vanilla, jasmine and musk.
Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc
This floral perfume was created by L "Occitane perfumer Karine Dubreuil. The smell turned out to be cold and noble. The general idea of \u200b\u200bthe aroma is formed by notes of currants and citrus fruits, and iris, peach and ylang-ylang add femininity.
Lady Million Paco Rabanne
This fragrance is rich, bright, festive, resonant and luxurious. Jasmine, orange, gardenia are at the very center of the scent, raspberry, neroli and lemon are felt in the top notes, and white honey and pouchouli are in the base, and all this combines into a stunning chord that one can only admire this extraordinary aroma.
Paul Smith Rose
This floral women's perfume is considered a true ode to the romantic and stunning flower, which has been a symbol of love for many years.
A fresh, sensual and airy combination of wild rose, cedar, magnolia and rose makes everyone turn around after you.
Balenciaga Paris
This perfume perfectly combines metallic notes with a delicate aroma of patchouli, violet, cloves and cedar. Perfume will please those who are fighting for a place in the sun, and women who are trying to find a balance between femininity and strength.
Alien Eau Extraordinair
Perfume can rightly be called intoxicating. At first, the freshness of tea and bergamot is felt, which quickly disappear, but the sweetness of neroli remains along with the aroma of tiare flowers. And the notes of white amber take you to a hot southern night. This is a beautiful floral perfume from the Alien series.
Marc Jacobs Daisy
The perfume is suitable for spring and summer, as well as for winter, when there are not enough sunny days.
The scent combines floral and fruity notes that uplift the mood. Jasmine, strawberry, violet are felt in the aroma, which are in perfect harmony with musk, vanilla and floral notes.
Aromatics in White, Clinique
Floral perfume from the Aromatics series combines an elegant floral-chypre composition. This is an urban smell, cold and moderately sweet. Great for early spring when you want something new. The fragrance is created by notes of orange blossom, patchouli and rose, which are perfectly combined with each other.
Buying perfume
Finding the right scent can be tricky. In order for perfume to bring only pleasure and enjoyment, one should be guided by simple rules. First you need to determine the type of your skin, distinguish between cold and hot. If you often feel cold in the extremities, then it means cold, and if you quickly sunbathe, there is a blush on your cheeks - hot.
- Owners of hot skin, experts advise to pay attention to spicy, gourmet and woody aromas.
- If the skin is cold, then turn your attention to soft floral, citrus and aldehyde aromas.
- If after a couple of minutes after application you do not smell, it means that it perfectly suited your skin and its acquisition will bring you joy and good mood.
- Before choosing a fragrance, it is necessary to determine for what purpose it is needed. For a business meeting, delicate floral, woody-citrus, as well as fougere compositions are suitable. For romantic - floral-spicy, aldehyde and oriental. For every day, it is best to choose an unobtrusive green fragrance or a floral-fruity one.
Perfumers when creating fragrances are guided by age groups:
- Up to 25 years old. For this group, bright floral perfumes are perfect in combination with notes of ripe citrus fruits. In addition, aromas of mandarin peel, peony, violet, pink currant and lily of the valley.
- From 25 to 35 years old. In this case, the fragrance should match the business environment, as well as emphasize elegance and femininity, so an unobtrusive floral-chypre fragrance would be an excellent choice. Notes of bergamot, fig, green tea and musk are perfect.
- From 35 to 45 years old. In this group, women use natural, but at the same time sensual fragrances. You can choose notes of tuberose, musk, cloves, mimosa, and white honey.
- From 45 years old. At this age, perfumes from the aldehyde family with a rich smell are perfect. Aromas of rose, sandalwood, moss and patchouli are excellent choices.
With the help of aromas, you can make changes in your life, improve your mood, as well as your emotional perception of reality.
Since the dawn of civilization, man has used a variety of fragrances to improve the smell in his home, please the gods and get rid of the unpleasant smell of his own body. Ancient perfumers used natural ingredients, and it was only towards the end of the 19th century that chemicals began to be added to them. But few people think that a modern perfume can consist of very unpleasant (and sometimes frankly repulsive) ingredients.
1. Musk of musk deer
Some deer families have glands that produce musk, a strong-smelling substance used to attract members of the opposite sex. Over 1,000 years ago, it was discovered that musk (whose smell is unpleasant on its own) enhances the smell of perfume. Unfortunately, glands in musk deer cannot be removed without killing the animal.
Despite this, musk was previously so valued that it was used in almost all perfumes until the 1970s, when its use was finally limited by the Convention on International Trade in Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.
2. Beaver stream
The beaver stream is a secretion from the beaver's preputial glands, which are located near the animal's anus. The beaver uses this secretion to mark its territory, and in fact this substance is very similar to musk.
The smell of the jet is reminiscent of wood and leather, which is why it is often used in perfumery to add these notes to perfumes. Although most contemporary perfumes no longer use the jet, it is still considered a vital ingredient in high-end perfumery.
3. Dimethyl sulfide
Dimethyl sulfide is one of the strongest chemicals in perfumery. It has a very strong repulsive smell of sulfur and onion. Unsurprisingly, in nature, this fragrance can be found in onions, asparagus, durian fruit, and dead horse lilies. Despite the nasty smell, this fragrance also showed up unexpectedly in roses and geraniums. Dimethyl sulfide is used in perfumery to enhance the pink note in geranium oil and also to replicate the smell of the sea.
4. Costus oil
Costus oil has also recently been banned from use in perfumery due to the fact that this ingredient can cause allergies. However, in the past, the essential oil, which was obtained from the dried roots of the costus plant, was a very common ingredient in classic perfumery and was used in some of the most famous perfumes for men. The smell of costus is like... the smell of wet dog hair, and it's incredibly strong.
In combination with other ingredients of animal origin, it forms the aroma of unripe watermelons and irises. Today, there are synthetic substitutes for costus, but no one has yet been able to completely imitate natural oil.
5. Phenols
Phenols make up a fairly large family of fragrances in perfumery. They are naturally produced by many plants as a defense mechanism against insects and the environment in general. The most commonly used phenols in perfumery are cresols, which were so named because they were originally synthesized from creosote, a by-product of coal tar production. Like their resin, they have the characteristic acrid smell of creosote.
But the strangest thing is that many of them also have an additional resemblance to the smell of horse and human urine. It may seem like a terribly strange perfume smell, but phenols play an important role in recreating some floral scents such as daffodils, ylang ylang, lilac, and hyacinth. Interestingly, salicylic acid, which is the main constituent of aspirin, is also a phenol.
6. Ambergris
Ambergris is the intestinal secretion of sperm whales. Scientists are still not entirely sure where exactly sperm whales emit ambergris, but perfume amber must spend years in the waters of the ocean to become one. Fresh ambergris (which can be found in the digestive tract of a killed sperm whale) is worthless to perfumers because it has an incredibly unpleasant odor.
After a long aging, the ambergris loses most of its repulsive smell and takes on a slightly floral aroma. It is mainly used in perfumery as a fixative - even the smallest drop of this substance leads to the fact that the smell of perfume stays on the skin for several days. For this reason, ambergris has been added to almost all perfumes in the past.
In modern perfumes, it is used much less often due to the incredibly high cost (from $ 26,000 per kilogram, depending on the quality). The price is so high because most ambergris is found by chance on the beaches. In the past, ambergris was also used as a dietary supplement by the wealthy, with King Charles II regularly eating it with scrambled eggs.
7. Indole
Indole is a chemical found naturally in many flowers (mostly whites such as jasmine and lilies). It is a very powerful chemical with a strong fecal odor. Its use in perfumery is exclusively as an additive to create floral fragrances. Synthetic jasmine essence will not truly smell like jasmine until a small amount of this fetid substance is added to it.
Most fascinating is the fact that indoles are formed from a chemical similar to serotonin, which interacts with receptors in the brain to make a person feel pleasure. For example, LSD is an indole alkaloid.
8. Civet Musk
Civet musk is a thick secretion from the glands of the civet (or civet), a mammal that is most commonly found in Africa and India. The most valued civet musk, which comes from animals bred in Ethiopia. This substance has an extremely strong rotten smell, but it has also been used for a long time in perfumery and as a food additive.
Most perfumes up to the end of the 20th century included civet musk in trace amounts. Even today, this ingredient can be found in expensive perfumes.
9. Mercaptans
Mercaptans are a group of chemicals with a horrendous odor. Their smell has a clear sulphurous tinge and is most similar to the smell of rotting cabbage. Various types of mercaptans are used in perfumery. For example, blackcurrant mercaptan is used to create a blackcurrant flavor, while furfuryl mercaptan is used to create a coffee flavor. Mercaptans, along with the dimethyl sulfide mentioned above, are found in human intestinal gases.
10. Skatol
The smell of skatol is extremely repulsive, even when extremely diluted. But when combined with other compounds, a floral smell is formed. Skatole is a compound that occurs naturally in feces and coal tar. That being said, it is also found (in trace amounts) in many flowers such as jasmine and orange blossom.
Before using cosmetics, you should learn about. Perhaps someone will have to give up their favorite cosmetics in order to maintain health.
Modern high-quality perfumery uses such a rich assortment of aromatic substances that it would be the envy of perfumers who created their compositions half a century ago. At the disposal of the modern creator there are more than a hundred products of natural (animal or plant) origin, as well as those components, the production of which is associated with chemical synthesis. It is thanks to this that in the world every year there are more and more new and wonderful perfume compositions.
As you understand, the composition of any perfume does not use the component itself, but its essential oil, which can be obtained in different ways. Currently, essential oil can be extracted by four main methods. The mechanical method is the squeezing of essential oil by pressing the zest or peel of fruits and citrus fruits. This method produces lemon, tangerine, orange oils. The distillation method uses steam distillation in its work. Distillation is actively used to obtain coriander, mint, geranium, rose oils. Essential oils can also be obtained using non-volatile and volatile solvents. These processes are called maceration and extraction, respectively. With the help of solvents, essential oils of ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose are obtained. Finally, the last method is the extraction of oils using dynamic sorption and enfleurage, but this method is used quite rarely.
As we have already said, in modern perfumery not only natural, but also synthetic fragrant substances can be used. In the second case, we are talking about a fairly large group of compounds of the organic type, which can be obtained by physicochemical or purely chemical methods. Plant products or a variety of chemical materials are used as raw materials for the production of synthetic substances. With the help of chemical synthesis, perfumers were able to extract the essential oil of fresh hay, clove, lilac, lily of the valley and many other oils that are actively used in complex perfume compositions. Without synthetic aromatics, the world would never have known about such a legendary perfume as Chanel No. 5. This smell is based on chemically synthesized substances - aldehydes.
And yet, perfume compositions would not be so perfect if they did not use natural raw materials, which are very rare and expensive. If the perfume has natural ingredients in its composition, then the fragrance receives the necessary depth, natural "magic", originality and individual disclosure, which occurs at the moment when the perfume droplets fall on your skin. Next, we will consider those components that are most often used in the composition of modern perfumery products.
Buds, buds, petals and flowers
A modern person can draw a clear parallel between flowers and perfumes. However, one should not think that the perfume industry began its existence precisely with the use of representatives of the flower world. Initially, perfumers tried to achieve a unique "vegetal spirit" using their own imagination, courage and certain technologies. But it was not possible to achieve the desired effect without real raw materials. Only natural ingredients could reveal the enchanting versatility of one or another component in a perfume.
Rose
For several millennia in a row, the rose has been considered the real queen not only of flowers, but of all perfumery in general. Rose essential oil has been extracted since the first millennium BC. Homer in his writings mentioned that rose oil was extracted with the help of olive oil, in which rose petals were soaked. It was with rose oil that Aphrodite washed the body of the deceased Hector. The distillation of rose petals in Islamic perfumery begins in Damascus. In the 8th century AD, the Persian city of Shiraz was known far beyond the borders of the country for its wonderful rose water. Until the 17th century, this water was exported to China, India and Europe at fabulous prices, since no one could achieve a similar quality of rose extract. In addition to pharmacists and culinary specialists, rose water was actively used by Western measures, from the Renaissance to the 19th century. The Sultans of Persia considered it an honor to stuff their mattresses with precious rose petals.
It is worth noting that, despite the variety of pink varieties, only two of its varieties are used in modern perfumery. These are Rosa damascene, which is grown in Turkey and Bulgaria, as well as Rosa centifolia, which grows in Morocco and Grasse. The second variety of rose, sometimes called Provence or May, is used to obtain concrete by treating rose petals with volatile solvents. And already pure oil is released from the concrete. The Moroccan centifolia rose, as well as the Turkish damascene rose, are treated with water vapor and solvents. It is water vapor that helps to obtain the purest essential oil from rose petals, which is used to create perfume compositions.
When picking roses, the main thing is to follow all the necessary rules and conditions. So, if you collect rose petals in the heat, you will get a strong aroma, but it will not differ in tenderness. Roses must be picked at dawn, and only by hand. Picking roses is very fast in order to be in time before half past nine in the morning. It is at this time that the largest amount of volatile substances is observed in the flower, which make the essential oil magnificent. One skilled worker can collect 5-8 kilograms of petals in an hour. During the whole day of work, active workers collect half a centner of rose petals. Do you think that 50 kilograms is a lot? Then you need to know that one kilogram of rose essential oil is obtained from five tons of rose flowers. That is, the total collection of one skilled worker results in one gram of rose oil.
The composition of rose oil includes about three hundred aromatic compounds, and some of them are not able to identify even modern science. This explains the fact that it is not yet possible to copy natural rose oil with the help of chemical synthesis. However, modern rose lovers do not have to complain. After all, in addition to huge rose plantations, there are such amazing fragrances as Joy by Jean Patou or Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, the smell of which can be considered almost perfect. Let's hope that soon scientists will be able to copy rose oil by deciphering all its components.
Jasmine
Today, many varieties of jasmine are known. However, as with the rose, only the jasmin grandiflorum species is used, which was first developed in Persia or Central Asia. It is authentically known that in 1560 Spanish sailors brought the jasmine tree to Grasse for the first time, after which this component began to be actively used in French perfumery. Unfortunately, today there are less than 10 hectares of jasmine plantations in Grasse, which makes it difficult to obtain flowers even for brands such as Chanel and Jacques Patou. It is the paucity of natural raw materials that explains the fact that Grasse jasmine is considered one of the most expensive components of perfumery.
In addition to France, jasmine grows in Egypt, India, Morocco and Italy, that is, in those countries where hand-picking jasmine is cheaper. Note that jasmine grows only in summer. The jasmine tree blooms from August to October, that's when it is harvested. Note that, compared with the beginning of the last century, the production of jasmine oil is small. In the 30-40s of the twentieth century, the annual production of jasmine reached 2 thousand tons. For one kilogram of jasmine oil, eight thousand flowers are needed. Just imagine how huge the plantations must be to provide oil to all the perfume industries that need it.
Precious jasmine flowers can be spoiled by heat and dew, resulting in the jasmine being harvested just before sunrise. Only manual labor is used, as machines cannot collect as carefully as necessary. Unlike a rose, a skilled picker can pick only 700 grams of jasmine per hour. After that, the flowers should get to the factory as soon as possible for subsequent extraction processing. At the beginning of the last century, perfume compositions contained about 10 percent of natural jasmine oil. To date, the best perfume compositions contain only 1-2 percent of this precious essential oil. It is worth noting that jasmine is one of the most sought after white flowers in the perfume industry. The best perfumers claim that quality perfumes can only be obtained using jasmine essential oil. And indeed it is. For example, jasmine was actively used in the creation of such legendary fragrances as First by Van Cleef, Fleurde fleurs by Nina Ricci, Agrede Lanvin, Joy by Jacques Patou and Chanel No. 5.
Tuberose
Tuberose is a flower with an intoxicating aroma. The scientific name for this flower is Polianthestuberose. For the first time it began to be grown for perfumery purposes in Mexico, and only in the 17th century the flower came to France, where it began to be bred in Grasse fields. Tuberose was especially loved by the Sun King, who made all the beauties of the court decorate their bodices with a flower. To date, the largest production of tuberose is located in the southeastern part of India, the state of Karnataka, where this flower grows all year round. It is from here that the main part of tuberose comes to the world perfume companies.
Tuberose has a very strong smell, characterized by the presence of warm balsamic shades. As a rule, tuberose is used in perfumery if the task is to create an oriental composition. A prime example of a perfume that uses tuberose is Christian Dior's Poison.
Narcissus
This is a wonderful mountain flower with an equally wonderful aroma. Narcissus grows in the meadows of the Massif Central, the Alps and the Jura. If we talk about France, then more than a dozen varieties of narcissus are grown here, which in French is called janquil. But to create perfumes, only one variety of narcissus is used - Narcissus poeticus. This flower blooms in May and is considered quite rare, hence its high cost. The collected flower grows at an altitude of about a thousand meters. Not only the flowers themselves are subjected to solvent extraction, but also the stems with leaves. Narcissus absolute oil is almost indistinguishable from the fragrance of the flower itself, apart from the greener note provided by the processing of the stem. Narcissus essential oil is very expensive. One kilogram of flowers sells for 10 euros, while more than 1,200 kilograms of narcissus flowers are required to produce one kilogram of essential oil. The resulting oil has a very intense aroma.
Mimosa
Mimosa came to Europe from Australia. In France, the flower took root very quickly and began to be grown in large volumes. Currently, the massifs of Var and the Alpes-Maritimes are literally dotted with mimosa from mid-winter to early spring. As a result, the fields take on a simply magnificent summer shade. It is worth noting that the golden mimosa balls are made up of stamens, not petals, which explains the fragility of this flower. Experienced collectors know that cut mimosa is stored for no more than a day. After that, it becomes unusable. Both the leaves and the flowers themselves are processed. The result is an absolute mimosa oil, the aroma of which is almost identical to the smell of a flower. Perfumers describe the aroma of mimosa oil as "tickling" and soft. The flower is especially revered by the Anglo-Saxons, but mimosa is never used as the main note of a perfume composition. Mimosa oil gives the perfume an excellent floral and powdery range of aromas, as a result of which it is used only to create floral perfumes.
Orange blossom or orange flower
Orange blossom is called the flower of chastity. In Grasse, there is a wonderful tradition - to give newlyweds garlands of orange flowers. But at the same time, the newlyweds should marry exactly at the time when the orange blossom blooms, that is, from April to May. The flower bears the scientific name Citrus aurantium amara, which means "bitter orange" in Latin. The tree came to the Mediterranean from South China during the heyday of the Roman Empire. Orange blossom essential oil is obtained by distilling flowers. It is noteworthy that the absolute oil of orange flowers is called neroli. This name was given to the oil in honor of the Duchess Orcini de neroli, who was known for her love of the smell of the oil. Neroli has a fresh and clean scent, invaded by minor animals and warm aromatic patches. The product is actively used as part of many colognes. The water that remains from the processing of orange blossoms is orange blossom water, which is actively used in perfumery. Sometimes orange blossom absolute oil is obtained by solvent extraction. It is worth noting that the oil yield is very small. One kilogram of neroli takes more than a ton of orange blossoms. Branches and leaves of bitter orange are also carefully processed, resulting in an essential oil called petitgrain oil. If the orange peel is processed, the result is bigarade oil.
Lavender
Lavender is a flower that is invariably associated with the wonderful region called Provence. The lavender smell is associated with cleanliness, as a result of which it is actively used in the manufacture of laundry products. But in the perfumery art, lavender has not been particularly honored lately, since it is believed that it has long gone out of fashion. At the same time, lavender is a flower that has the widest range of fragrances. Therefore, to say that lavender has become obsolete is premature. It is also worth noting that the plateaus of Manosque and the hills of the Luberon in August bloom not with lavender itself, but with a hybrid of this flower called lavandin. As for real lavender, it grows in more southern regions. In perfumery, this extremely expensive component is used exclusively in the initial notes, and flowers with a thin stem are taken as the basis. Lavender grows not only in the Alps, but also in the UK.
Perfumery history knows two examples when the lavender note was used by the British to create masterpiece compositions. Both of these perfumes were created at the beginning of the last century. The first fragrance is English Iavender by Atkinson, which was released in 1910. This is the first men's eau de toilette in the world. The second fragrance is Old English Lavender by Yardley, which was released in 1913. This scent was considered a necessary addition to English tweeds. These compositions were replaced in 1934 by Karon Pour un home. Unfortunately, the lavender smell has become so accustomed to associations with freshly washed linen that it is unlikely that any perfumer will dare to release a perfume composition with a characteristic smell. However, in some men's fragrances, lavender notes can still be heard, which make the compositions more fresh.
Ylang Ylang
The plant, which has a long name Cananga odorata forma genuine, is referred to in the perfume world with a simple and memorable name "ylang-ylang". It grows in humid tropical heat and does not recognize other conditions. Initially, the plant was discovered in the Philippines, after which it was transported to Madagascar and the Camoros Islands, where the main ylang-ylang plantations are located, supplying flowers for famous perfume brands. It is worth noting that ylang-ylang is a tree that can reach 30 meters in height. On its uneven branches, the flowers used in perfumery grow. However, the industrial type of ylang-ylang is cut to 1.8 meters for ease of collection, as a result of which its branches become more crooked.
Ylang Ylang, which the Filipinos call "the flower of flowers", is recognized as the flower of seduction and delight. The women of Manila often decorate their hair with ylang-ylang, which is why the fragrance of this wonderful flower always reigns in the harem. Perfumers around the world use this scent, which tends to open up quickly and become more powdery.
Roots and rhizomes.
Perfumers often face the problem of not being able to extract certain plants and flowers. But if the smell of a particular plant is still necessary, the extraction is carried out not with flowers or stems, but with the roots of the plant, from which an excellent perfume essential oil is obtained. This oil can be used in all sorts of combinations.
Iris
To date, more than three hundred varieties of iris are known, but only two of them are used in perfumery. These are Iris pallida and Iris florentina. Flowers are grown in Florence and Morocco. It is noteworthy that flowers are not suitable for obtaining iris essential oil. Only rhizomes are processed. As a result, the scent of iris essential oil is different from that of the flower itself. After processing, iris oil smells like violet. The essential oil of the iris is very expensive, because before it is obtained, it is necessary to grow the flower itself for three years, and then dry it for three years, so that the result is a fuller aroma. Iris roots are processed by distillation. One ton of iris as a result forms only 2 kilograms of essential oil, which has a very strong, subtle, pronounced aroma. In perfume, iris oil adds a woody and floral note, making the fragrance more enduring.
Vetiver
Vetiver is a plant that was introduced to Reunion Island in 1850. For over 150 years, Bourbon vetiver, botanically named Andropogonsquarrosus, has been regarded as one of the noblest plants in perfumery. The Indians call vetiver by the mysterious name KusKus. This cereal plant is currently grown not only on the island of Reunion, but also in Indonesia, India and Haiti. Vetiver roots, after distillation, produce an essential oil that is used to obtain vetiveryl acetate and for the production of high-quality perfume compositions.
Leaves, herbs and stems.
Geranium
There are more than 250 varieties of geraniums in the world, but the inexorable perfumery, as usual, has chosen only three main varieties from them, which are grown on the famous island of Reunion, as well as on the banks of the Egyptian Nile. Geranium leaves make a wonderful essential oil, which is extracted by steam distillation. As a result of the use of geranium essential oil, the composition acquires a pronounced pleasant flower shade. The main feature of geranium oil is that it contains chemical compounds similar to those of rose essential oil. Because of this, in perfume compositions in which geranium oil has been used, individual pink notes can sometimes be distinguished.
Patchouli
In the 70s of the last century, representatives of the hippie youth movement worshiped the unsurpassed perfume "Flower power", the magic of which was explained by the presence of patchouli essential oil in the composition of perfumes. Note that this oil is obtained from dry leaves growing in Indonesia, bearing the biological name Pogostemoncablin. Patchouli has an unusually persistent woody, earthy and camphorous aroma that is highly valued in modern perfumery.
Violet
Despite the beauty of the violet flower, only its Viola odorata leaves are used in perfumery production, which undergo a solvent extraction procedure. As a result, an essential oil is released, which has a strong green note and a persistent smell of flowers. It is worth noting that violet was actively used during the formation of the perfume industry. What are the fragrances VeraVioletta from Roger and Galle and Violettepourpre from Ubigan, released at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, violet essential oil is used only as a fixative for other perfume elements.
Myrtle
The branches of the Myrtus communis plant are excellent for producing a wonderful essential oil used in perfumes. It is enough to add only one drop of myrtle oil to make the fragrance sound with all myrtle colors. Myrtle is a Mediterranean tree that the ancient Greeks dedicated to the goddess Venus. Until now, myrtle is considered a symbol of love and happiness. Myrtle fruits and branches were added to wine even during Roman times, resulting in an aromatic wine. In addition, myrtle is still used to aromatize baths.
There are many different plants used in perfumery. Among them are the herbaceous smell of wormwood essential oil, French and exotic basil oil, tarragon, cypress, eucalyptus, marjoram, laurel, dill, a small South American mate tree, mint, pine, parsley, oregano, medicinal and clary sage, verbena, thyme and tobacco.
Branches, bark, mosses and lichens.
Long used for fumigation, these products play an important role in modern perfumery when used in woody and chypre-scented compositions.
Cinnamon
Cinnamon gained popularity as early as the 16th century. This spice has been used everywhere, from confectionery to the famous warm wines. In the art of perfumery, cinnamon essential oil is actively used, for the production of which the Ceylon cinnamon tree Cinnamomum ceylanicum is used. This variety of cinnamon tree grows in the Seychelles, Malaysia and Ceylon. Cinnamon essential oil has a warm, persistent aroma that blends well with other components of oriental perfume compositions.
sandalwood
The essential oil of sandalwood has been known since antiquity. It is highly valued not only in India, where sandalwood grows, but throughout the planet. This is due to the fact that sandalwood is often used in the creation of aromatic compositions by many perfume companies. The list of sandalwood perfumes is quite large: Amazone, Guerlain, Paco Raban, Metal, Jiki, Hermes, etc. , To create an essential oil in the steam distillation, not only the bark of the sandalwood tree is subjected, but also its roots. The result is a soft and warm oil, the smell of which can only be admired. Essential oil, which is obtained in the Indian city of Karnataka, is especially valued in the perfume industry. Today, sandalwood trees are under state protection, as a result of which they are not officially cultivated.
oakmoss
The well-known oak moss, which can be found in temperate regions, is harvested in late winter and early spring. In addition to the variety Everniaprunastri, the tree moss EverniaPurfurcea is also collected. The solvent extraction method makes it possible to isolate absolute essential oils from the moss, which have an extravagant smell of greenery and cipher. Oakmoss essential oil is used in perfumes such as Kouros and Molino by Yves Saint Laurent, Quartz and Miss Dior by Christian Dior.
As for the rest of the wood raw materials, rosewood is especially worth highlighting. Rosewood essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood. The tree itself grows in Guyana, Peru and Brazil. Rosewood essential oil is very important for compositions that have a characteristic leathery scent. In woody compositions, you can also sometimes notice the use of cedar oil, thuja oil and birch oil. By the way, birch essential oil is valued no less than rosewood oil, which is explained by the characteristic smell of the skin.
Resins and balms.
Many people are not familiar with this group of elements, but perfumers very often use them in aromatic compositions, appreciating them for their extraordinary properties. Resins, balsams, gum-resins and gums are natural secretions of a certain group of plants, which can also be formed due to any damage. These products may vary in solubility. Resins additionally have elegant odorous properties.
Siam benzoin
Siam benzoin is obtained by cutting the trunk of a low-growing Styraxtonkinensis tree, which grows in Vietnam and Laos. The resin can be subjected to solvent extraction, resulting in a product called resinoid. This element is used by perfumers who want to make the smell more "round".
labdanum
Labdanum is a gum resin that is extracted from the leaves of Cistus Iadaniferus, that is, cistus (a shrub that grows in the Mediterranean basin). Labdanum absolute oil is often used in amber perfume compositions, as well as chypre perfumes.
Incense
Frankincense, botanically called Boswellia carterii, is a wild shrub native to Somalia and the southern parts of the Arabian Peninsula. Frankincense essential oil is obtained by distillation. Usually perfumers use it in the initial notes of a perfume composition, which, under the influence of incense, acquire a pleasant spicy shade. Extraction also produces a resinoid which has a significantly heavier aroma. It is used to create woody and oriental compositions, adding as the main note.
Galbanum
Galbanum is a gum resin extracted by cutting the trunk of the herbaceous plant Ferula galbaniflua, which grows in Iranian territory. After the resin is treated with solvents or steam, an essential oil with a characteristic green aroma is formed. Galbanum essential oil is a perfect match for fragrances such as Fidji by Guy Laroche and Vent Vert by Balmain.
Myrrh
Myrrh has been known since biblical times. It was the essential oil of myrrh that was brought to the newborn savior by one of the Magi. Myrrh is a resin that is naturally released from the branches of the Commiphora myrrha shrub. From the resin, an odorous essential oil is obtained, which, with the help of subsequent processing, turns into a resinoid. The aroma of myrrh essential oil resembles a forest thicket. Myrrh oil is used in perfumery to flavor combinations of fern and chypre.
Opoponax resin
The huge Elemi manila tree, native to the Philippines, produces a gum resin called elemi or opoponax. The essential oil of opoponax, as well as the resinoid, smells like myrrh. Opoponax is actively used in perfumes such as Shalimar, Guerlain.
In addition, it is necessary to recall the tolu balsam, which is extracted from Venezuelan and Bolivian trees. The sweet tone of tolu balsam is often used in oriental perfume compositions. It is worth noting that the aromatic properties of resins such as opoponax, galbanum, frankincense and myrrh were known to the ancient Egyptians, who used them in incense.
Fruit and peel.
Fruit is quite difficult to use in the art of perfumery. This is because the fruit contains too much water, so the flavor is not strong enough to be used. In the perfume industry, only citrus fruits are used, which are pre-dried. In addition, the peel or peel of citrus fruits, which contain essential oils, is of particular value. Citrus fruits used by perfumers include oranges, tangerines, grapefruits and lemons. Citrus aromas are characteristic of refreshing waters and colognes.
Lemon
Lemon essential oil is obtained by pressing the peel of the Citruslimon fruit. This variety of lemon is grown in Ivory Coast, South America, Florida and Italy. Lemon essential oil is typical for the initial notes of perfume compositions, since it can be used to achieve the necessary freshness.
Orange
Orange essential oil is made from sweet orange peel and bitter orange fruit. It is these components that are able to give an oil that gives sufficient stability and brightness of the smell. The effect of orange essential oil is used in colognes and refreshing waters along with lemon.
Mandarin
The birthplace of the mandarin is China. This citrus fruit was especially revered by the local rulers, who were called "mandarin". In perfumery, only one variety of mandarin is used - Citrus reticulate. Mandarin essential oil is obtained by squeezing the peel of citrus fruits.
Grapefruit
To create grapefruit essential oil, use the fruit Citrus paradisi, which grows in the United States and Israel. In perfumery, grapefruit has been used relatively recently, but when creating citrus perfume compositions, it is simply indispensable.
In addition to the above fruits, bergamot citrus essential oil can be noted, which is extracted from Citrus bergamia. However, the aroma of this oil quickly evaporates, as a result of which it is used only for a general rise in smell. In the 18th and 19th centuries, zest produced from the fruits of Citrus medica was actively used. In addition, do not forget about the green lemon (limette), the essential oil of which is often used to create sports scents and men's toilet waters. And yet, limette is used as part of Coca-Cola.
anise and star anise
Anise essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of small dried fruits of the herb Pimpinella anisum, which grows in Europe. Star anise is called star anise. Its essential oil is different from the oil of ordinary anise, although it is made in a similar way. For distillation, the fruits of the giant tree Illicium verum are used, which are star-shaped. Badian grows in the southern regions of China, as well as in Vietnam. Star anise and anise essential oils are commonly used in refreshing perfume compositions.
Nutmeg
Nutmeg, which is known as Myristica fragrans, grows on a nutmeg evergreen tree. Freshly picked nutmeg is similar in size to an apricot. Nutmeg peel has a fibrous reddish texture. If we talk about the taste of the nut itself, then it has a bitter, tart taste, as a result of which it is practically not eaten. But for perfumery, nutmeg is just perfect. The spicy smell of nutmeg essential oil is ideal for modern colognes and men's perfume compositions.
Vanilla
Vanilla was first discovered in Mexico. In the 18th century, sailors brought it to the Camoros, Madagascar, Reunion and other regions of the Indian Ocean. Vanilla is a climbing plant called Vanilla planifolia, which belongs to the orchid family. Vanilla flowers have a yellowish or white-greenish tint, the pods are slightly flattened. The seeds are inside the pods. The inner walls of the pods are covered with small hairs, which secrete a viscous yellow substance with a sweetish and warm balsamic smell. Vanilla essential oil is distinguished by fixing properties and a strong smell. Vanilla is used in many perfume compositions. Especially often it can be seen in the perfumes of the Guerlain house.
Do not forget about such perfume elements as carnation buds, which do not belong to the flowers of the same name. Clove buds are the flower stalks of the clove tree native to Zanzibar, Malaysia and Madagascar. Clove bud essential oil, which has an herbaceous and spicy aroma, blends gracefully with rose oil to produce the clove scent often used in modern perfumery. Also, the perfume industry uses juniper berries, the aroma of which is similar to the smell of gin. The essential oil of juniper berries has a forest, fruity, coniferous smell. Nigella berries, after distillation, form a balsamic and spicy essential oil, which can be used in small doses for oriental and floral perfume compositions.
Seeds and grains
Cardamom
The seeds of the plant Elettaria cardamonum, which is native to Central America, Indonesia, India and Ceylon, are used to create cardamom essential oil, which has an airy, fruity scent. Cardamom is used to lift perfume compositions.
Coriander
Coriander or Coriandrum sativum is an herb that is grown in North Africa, Hungary and Ukraine. Coriander essential oil is isolated by steam distillation of the seeds. Coriander oil has a pronounced spicy aroma, with a slight chocolate tinge.
Cumin
Cuminumcyminum is an Indian and Mediterranean herb that is important to the perfume industry for its dried seeds. Steam distillation is used to obtain cumin essential oil. Cumin essential oil is used in woody and fern combinations in small quantities because it has a very strong aniseed, spicy, herbaceous aroma.
hay fenugreek
Fenugreek is a herb that grows in Asia Minor and India. In Islamic and ancient perfumery, this herb played a fundamental role. Through extraction, a resinoid is extracted from its seeds, the smell of which is similar to that of celery and walnut. To date, fenugreek is rarely used.
Tonka bean
In the fruits of the huge tree Dipterix odorata, which grows in Brazil and Guiana, aromatic seeds are found, which, by extraction, release the essential oil of the tonka bean. This oil is actively used as the main note of oriental, tobacco, amber perfumes.
Pepper
This is not an ordinary culinary pepper, but the fruit of the climbing shrub Pipernigrum, which has reddish berries suitable for use in the perfume industry. After picking, the berries gradually begin to turn brown, which is a signal that they need to be processed to obtain pepper essential oil. This oil is very often found in men's perfumes.
Rhubarb can not be found in every garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jams, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruit and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, reminiscent of burdock, acts as a beautiful backdrop for annuals. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.
3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage and meat sandwich - a great idea for a quick snack or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and a little spice. There is no onion in these sandwiches, if you wish, you can add an onion marinated in balsamic vinegar to any of the sandwiches, this will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, it remains to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.
Depending on the variety group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, medium ripening - 55-60 and late terms - at least 70 days. When planting seedlings of tomatoes at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.
Unpretentious plants of the "second plan" sansevieria do not seem boring to those who appreciate minimalism. They are better than other indoor decorative foliage stars for collections that require minimal maintenance. The stable decorative effect and extreme endurance of only one type of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very fast growth - Khan's rosette sansevieria. The squat rosettes of their stiff leaves create striking clusters and patterns.
One of the brightest months of the garden calendar pleasantly surprises with the balance of the distribution of favorable and unsuccessful days for working with plants according to the lunar calendar. In June, gardening and gardening can be done throughout the month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do useful work. There will be their optimal days for sowing with plantings, and for pruning, and for a pond, and even for construction work.
Meat with mushrooms in a pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a festive menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken too, so this meat is preferable for the recipe. Mushrooms - fresh champignons, in my opinion, the best choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - mushrooms, boletus and other goodies are best harvested for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.
I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious and with an interesting, non-trivial foliage color. I have different Japanese spireas, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry ... And there is one special shrub that I will talk about in this article - the viburnum vesicle. To make my dream of a low maintenance garden come true, it's probably the perfect fit. At the same time, it is able to diversify the picture in the garden very much, moreover, from spring to autumn.
June is not accidentally one of the favorite months of gardeners. The first harvest, new crops in the vacant places, the rapid growth of plants - all this cannot but rejoice. But the main enemies of gardeners and gardeners - pests and weeds - also this month use every opportunity to spread. Planting work is on the wane this month, and seedling planting is at its peak. The lunar calendar in June for vegetables is balanced.
Many owners of cottages, equipping the territory, think about creating a lawn. Imagination draws, as a rule, magical pictures - an even carpet of green grass, a hammock, a deck chair, a brazier and beautiful trees and shrubs around the perimeter ... But, faced with the breakdown of the lawn in practice, many are surprised to learn that it is not so easy to create a beautiful even lawn . And, it would seem, everything is done correctly, but here and there incomprehensible bumps appear or weeds sprout.
The June schedule of garden work can surprise anyone with its richness. In June, even lawns and ponds require attention. Some ornamental plants have already completed flowering and need pruning, others are just getting ready for the upcoming show. And sacrificing an ornamental garden in order to take better care of a ripening crop is not a good idea. In the June lunar calendar, there is time to plant new perennials and potted compositions.
Cold pork leg terrine is a meat appetizer from the category of budget recipes, because pork legs are one of the cheapest parts of the carcass. Despite the modesty of the ingredients, the appearance of the dish and its taste are top notch! Translated from French, this “game dish” is a cross between a pate and a casserole. Since there were fewer game hunters in times of technological progress, terrine is made more often from livestock meat, fish, vegetables, and cold terrines are also made.
In pretty pots or trendy florariums, on walls, tables and window sills, succulents can last weeks without watering. They do not change their character and do not perceive conditions that are comfortable for most capricious indoor plants. And their diversity will allow everyone to find their favorite. Similar either to stones, or to bizarre flowers, or to extravagant sticks or lace, fashionable succulents have long been not limited to cacti and fat women.
Trifle with strawberries is a light dessert common in England, the USA and Scotland. I think this dish is prepared everywhere, only called differently. Trifle consists of 3-4 layers: fresh fruit or fruit jelly, biscuit biscuit or biscuit, whipped cream. Usually they prepare custard for a layer, but for a light dessert they prefer to do without it, whipped cream is enough. This dessert is prepared in a deep transparent salad bowl so that the layers are visible.
Weeds are bad. They interfere with the growth of cultivated plants. Some wild herbs and shrubs are poisonous or may cause allergies. At the same time, many weeds can be of great benefit. They are used both as medicinal herbs, and as an excellent mulch or component of green manure, and as a means of repelling harmful insects and rodents. But in order to properly fight or use this or that plant for the good, it must be identified.
