Knitting sleeves for beginners - description of technique, practical tips, photo examples. How to knit sleeves with knitting needles: patterns for beginners and practical lessons Samples of knitted sleeves

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 17), add the remainder to the first number (3 + 1 = 4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Now you can start knitting the okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, or at the beginning of the purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

How to knit a set-in sleeve

How to correctly calculate and knit a classic set-in sleeve, tapered at the bottom?
It is better to do the calculation for half a sleeve. Let's take a knitting density of 2, 2 loops and 2.8 rows in 1 cm. Size 48-50
set-in sleeve Let's define:
1) number of loops in the narrowest part of the sleeve 10 cm x 2, 2 p. = 22 loops
2) number of loops in the widest part 18 cm x 2.2 p. = 40 loops
3) the difference between the narrow and wide parts is 40p. - 22p. = 18 loops
4) sleeve length to the hem - 40 cm x 2.8 r. = 112 rows.
Divide 112 rows into 18 loops = 6, 2 rows. This means that additions must be made in every sixth row, i.e. for sleeve bevels, you need to add 18 times, 1 loop in every sixth row on both sides.
According to the “grandmother’s” method, additions for bevels of sleeves are made in every sixth row, and if the arms are short, then increases are made 1 time in the fourth, 1 time in the sixth row.
If you know this, then you don’t have to make calculations for adding loops.

Sleeve coverThe sleeve cover is calculated as follows:
1) number of loops in the widest part = 40 loops.
2) divide 40 loops into 3 parts - 40p. : 3 = 13 p (1 remainder). We will add the remainder to the first part. Thus:
1 part - 14 loops
Part 2 - 13 loops
Part 3 - 13 loops.
Let's divide each part into groups:
Part 1 - divide the loops into 2 groups, 7 loops in each group. We divide the loops of the first group into triplets: 3 + 3 (1 remainder). Add the remainder to the first number: 4 + 3. Divide the loops of the second group into twos: 2 + 2 + 2 (1 remainder). We add the remainder to the first digit: 3 + 2 + 2.
Part 2 - divide into units: 13 units.
Part 3 - divide the loops into triplets: 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 (1 remainder). Add the remainder to the last digit: 3 + 3 + 3 + 4.
For convenience, let’s put the calculations on the pattern and start knitting.
Some useful tips.
It is better to make additions for sleeve bevels at the beginning of the row after the edge loop, and at the end of the row - before the edge loop. This will make it easier to sew the sleeve seam.
If the sleeve is knitted in a pattern, be sure to include the added stitches in the pattern.
Very often, in order to make the sleeves the same, both sleeves are knitted simultaneously (they are on the same needle) from two balls.
Before you start performing the okata, try on the sleeve on yourself so as not to make a mistake in the length.
If all the additions are made, but the length of the sleeve is not enough, then simply knit straight to the desired length, not forgetting that the second sleeve must be knitted in the same way.

Reducing stitches along the sleeve head line

Having knitted to the armhole line, we calculate the decrease in loops along the line of the sleeve head. To correctly calculate the decrease in loops of the sleeve head, divide the height of the sleeve head into three equal parts


According to the construction of the drawing, the segment is equal to 16 cm: 16 cm: 3 = 5.3 cm.
We get points K and K1. Draw a horizontal line through point K1. The points of intersection with the okat line are designated by the letters K2 and K3 (see drawing). Section KChK3 - control line. We determine how many rows will be knitted in each part: 4.2 rows X 5.3 ~ 22 rows.
The size of the segment GKhG2 (sleeve width along the armhole line) is 36 cm, or 108 loops (3 loops X 36 cm = 108 loops). Therefore, along the cuff line of the sleeve, you need to decrease 108 loops. We calculate the decrease in loops of the sleeve head for each half separately.
Let's consider decreasing the loops from the back, i.e. on the left. On the finished drawing we measure the size of the segment K2K: K2K1 = 8.1 cm, or 3 loops X 8.1 “24 loops.

How to knit a set-in sleeve

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on knitting needles: long and... whether short; narrowed or, conversely, widened downwards; straight (tubular) or lantern-shaped; with a cuff or lapel and many others.

Sleeves can be made not only from the bottom up from the wrist (the most common method), but also from the side of the sleeve seam (transverse knitting direction). You can knit a set-in sleeve from top to bottom (from the high point of the hem), but this is not entirely convenient. ·

Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed downwards. knitting the sleeves before the start of the okat

Calculation and knitting of the sleeve before the start of the okat (Fig. 176). The calculation is quicker to do for half a sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:
3 p. X 1 0 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);
3 p. x 1 8 cm = 54 p.
Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow parts of the sleeve:
54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.
Measure the distance from the beginning of the expansion on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34 cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference is in the loops):
34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.
Count the number of edges in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add one loop in every 6th row. Let's look at how best to do this.

Cast on the required number of stitches on the knitting needles (30 p. X 2 = 60 p.), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2-4 rows and make the first addition: at the beginning of the front row, remove the selvedge and, having made a yarn over (toward you), knit a row, at the end of it, in front of the edging, throw on another yarn over.

In the next purl row, knit the yarn over with knit stitches behind the back wall. Continue knitting, making similar increases on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 1 0 8 loops on the knitting needle (54 sts X 2 = 1 08 sts).

In order not to lose count, mark each time with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which you made an addition. These marks will also be useful to you when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Calculation and knitting of sleeve cap. To calculate the knitting of an okat, it is most advisable to use a technique developed by practice. Whatever yarn you use and whatever number of needles you knit from, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the knitting density, only the number of calculation numbers changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer there are. Check out this simple calculation.

Divide the number of loops in segment A B (Fig. 177) into 3 equal parts (54 p.: 3 = 1 8 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos. Moreover, the first half is divided into threes, the second - into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 1 7), add the remainder to the first digit (3 + 1 = 4).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (1 8 units).

The loops of the 3rd part are in triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 1 8). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O). Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

The calculation is ready. You can start knitting the okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and at the end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.

Knitting sleeves

Hello to all needlewomen!

We are starting another lesson at the Knitting School. The topic of our lesson: “Knitting sleeves” :-)

The most common sleeve shape is set-in with a rounded shape. This model is perfect for any product. As a rule, rounded armholes are made on classic models with a round neck and slightly sloping shoulders.

To knit sleeves and a rounded armhole, it is enough to master the fastening and decreasing of loops.

So let's get started.

Armhole, front and back measurements:

The front and back openings can be either the same or a little deeper in the front.

The sleeve opening must be the same at the front and back. After completing the armhole, decreases are made for the sleeve cap.

In this case, the shoulder line can be either straight, slightly beveled or rounded.

To calculate the number of decreased stitches for the front and back armholes:

A) subtract the loops on the neck and shoulders from the total number of loops,

B) divide the resulting number of loops by 2, as a result you will get the number of loops that need to be removed to form a floodplain on both sides,

C) in the first row, cast off 3-4 loops at once, then in every second row, 1 loop 2 times, then cast off 1 loop until the required number of loops remains.

For knitting sleeves:

For the sleeve armhole, perform the same decreases as in point c). Then round off the top of the sleeve. To do this, decrease 1 or 2 stitches in every second row until a few stitches remain.

To form an armhole, it is necessary to both decrease the loops and close them. Cast off the stitches at the beginning of the row. Reducing the loops that model the armhole can be done along the edges or inside the row, due to this a decorative effect is achieved - a thin side with a slope to the right or left.

Read how to cast off and decrease stitches when knitting sleeves in the next knitting lesson for beginners.

How to knit okat sleeves

Preparatory process

The following abbreviations will be used in the description:

P. - loop;
R. - row;
LP - facial loop.
First, let's look at how to knit a sleeve with a collar, and how to knit armholes on a product.

If the product is knitted according to a pattern from a magazine or other source, then the description for beginners always indicates how to make an armhole. If a sweater or dress is made without a pattern or diagram, the following knowledge will come to the rescue.

To calculate the decrease and increase of stitches, it is very important to know the knitting density. On a 10x10 cm pattern knitted with knitting needles, the sum of the loops and rows is calculated.

Calculation of decreases for armholes without a pattern

1. When forming an armhole, we determine its width, usually the size is 4-6 cm. It must be taken into account that the front armhole is slightly deeper than on the back.
2. To do this, subtract the number related to the neck and shoulders from the total number of loops and divide it in half. You can also use a measuring tape and count the loops at a distance of 4 cm. For example, take 9 stitches. On the one side.

3. Now this figure is divided by three, resulting in 3p. If the number cannot be divided exactly by three, then the extra loop is added to the first segment from the edge, for example, 10 is divided by 4+3+3.
4. The first segment is immediately closed at once: decreasing at the beginning of the front row on one side and at the beginning of the purl row on the other. But only if the number is not more than 6 stitches, otherwise the decrease occurs in two stages: first, half of the loops are at the beginning of two lines, then the second half is similar.
5. On the second segment, the loops are reduced only on the front side: after the edge there are 2 loops together and in front of it at the end - the same. The wrong side is knitted according to the pattern. The decrease is repeated according to this scheme the required number of times, in our case 3p., which means only 3 times.
6. The third segment will be even more smoothly rounded, and the loops will decrease in the same way as on the second, only through one front row, i.e. in just three, together with the purl one. In this case, 3p. The decrease happens like this:
1st row: edging, 2 LP together, the rest unchanged, at the end 2 LP together, edging;
2-4p.: according to the drawing.
7. From the 5th r. everything is repeated from 1 to 4 p. And so on 1 more time. The total will be minus 3p. from each side.
8. For a tight-fitting silhouette, it is necessary to make the armhole concave. Therefore, after all the decreases on the upper part, additions are made 3 times by 1 p. at an equal distance. The result should be that the edge of the shoulder protrudes above the middle part of the armhole by 1cm.
The video below will help you better understand the topic.

Calculation of decreases and increases with video instructions

Now you can start making the sleeve itself.

Knitting a sleeve begins with a cuff, but before that a calculation is made based on its dimensions.

The initial data are the following dimensions:

Width at the narrowest point (bottom) – 10cm;
width at the top – 18cm;
length to rim – 40cm.
With a knitting density of 10x10 cm = 22p.x28p., it turns out at the bottom 10cm = 22p., at the top 18cm = 40p., length 40cm = 112p.

Width difference between top and bottom:

40p. – 22p. = 18p. - this is the number of loops that need to be added during the work process;
112 rub. / 18p. = 6.2 rubles, rounded to 6 rubles. – this is the number of rows through which increases are required.
This means that it turns out that it is necessary to perform additions 18 times by 1p. in every sixth line. If you get an odd number, for example, 7 rubles, then you will need to perform decreases in turn: first after 6 rubles, then after 8 rubles.

You can do without calculations by using the knowledge of grandmothers, who increased the number of loops every 6 rubles. on regular sleeves, and in turn after 4 rubles, then after 6 rubles. – for short hands.

The calculation is proposed for half, the edging of the second half is performed symmetrically.

The width is divided into three equal sections:
40 / 3 = 13p.+1
The result is not an integer, so the remainder is added to the first section: 14+13+13.
Each section is further divided into groups:
1st for two groups: 4+3;
2nd - 1 p., will be 13;
3rd - 3p. = 3+3+3+4, if there is a remainder, it is summed to the outer group.
These numbers are clearly visible in the figure above.
The decrease is carried out according to the number of loops in groups the specified number of times after and before the edge:
first section - close 4 p., after 1 p. – 3p.;
second – 1/3 part (4 p.) – 1 p. after 1 p., another 1/3 (5 p.) - 1 p. each. after 3 p., the remaining 1/3 (4 p.) - 1 p. after 1 rub., the remainder is added to the middle group;
third - close 3p. through the line, the last ones will be 4p.
Now for beginning needlewomen, making sleeves (round and armhole) will be a completely simple task, even without a pattern.

If you still have questions, you can watch a video on the topic.

For beginners, it can be very difficult to get started with abbreviations. To make the task easier, many publications offer more detailed information on deciphering individual elements of the product, master classes on how to knit sleeves correctly, as well as patterns for beginners. Such simplified descriptions help needlewomen master more complex material.

Varieties of sleeve knitting patterns

For the first time, you can practice using the “raglan” technique. These patterns are very easy to knit. After this, other types of sleeves are considered:

• bat;
• flashlights.

They also vary in length: short, to the hand and to the middle of the shoulder. If necessary, you can enlarge the part. The finished product will look different depending on the sleeve chosen. You also need to decide on the bevel.

The most important stages in knitting are the collar and armhole. How well they are made determines the appearance of the product.

Getting started and taking measurements

To make it easier for a beginner to master knitting a sleeve, you need to look at models with detailed diagrams, photographs, and descriptions. Knitting needles are selected in accordance with the instructions in the instructions. Depending on the specifics of the product, they can also be circular.

Sometimes the finished work is crocheted around the edges or machine-stitched with braid. For example, a fur vest can be knitted along the armhole with threads.

For a successful result in knitting a product, it is necessary to correctly calculate the loops and take measurements. The following parameters are taken into account:

• concavity of the finished form;
• element length;
• width;
• the ratio of the sleeve to the entire size.

Two diagrams are drawn up: the product itself and the general sequence with all the designations. When knitting a product, you need to figure out how to knit the armhole with knitting needles:

Sewn-in sleeve

Knitting sleeves with knitting needles from below for beginners, but first, take measurements and make calculations:

1. Measure the circumference of the arm around the hand, approximately 24 cm, and the widest point - 40 cm.
2. Knit a 10 x 10 cm sample and count the rows vertically and the stitches horizontally.

For example, you got it - 33 (r.) by 24 (p.). Make up the proportion and calculate the width of the sleeve from the bottom (from A to A1):

• 10 cm – 24 p.
• 24 cm - x p.

It turns out: 24x24:10 = 57.6 loops. Round in the desired direction, for example, 58 p. Also find the upper part (from B to B1): 40x24:10 = 96 p.

The expansion of the sleeve is determined by the following calculations: (96–58): 2 = 19 p. The resulting amount is added on each side.

Okat calculation

The front and back are connected by an edging, the upper round part of the sleeve. The pattern is made for half, 1/2 of the loops are taken at the widest point, i.e. 48 p. A diagram with its own indicators is shown. Step by step calculation:

Sewing in a fragment

To design the product, the resulting parts are sewn together. The instructions are:

Knitting a sleeve with a pattern and careful stitching will not present much difficulty. Now you can move on to other products.

Description of the batwing sleeve

Knit together, no need to sew. You can start from the top, bottom or across the fabric, from one cuff to the opposite. The yarn is selected with medium thickness. Knitting needles are used circular and matching the thread:

This work has been completed. A novice fashionista can easily master it.

Raglan technique

A simple option for knitting sleeves is raglan, knitted on top. With this look you can try it on.

The cast-on loops are divided into 4 parts; the stitch will pass through them. Under the fastener, when knitting with straight needles, 1 segment is divided into two.

Raglan lines are marked with colored thread or pins so as not to miss them. The sleeve is knitted on top using knitting needles.

Decrease in every odd row if knitting in the round. Expand from the front side. The reverse side is knitted with straight knitting needles. To make the raglan line clearer, the marked stitches are knitted and added before and after them.

In order to increase the number of loops, you need to knit two from one or make a yarn over, due to which holes appear in the pattern. In the first option, the canvas is smooth and even. Therefore, when making increases, take this factor into account.

When knitted to the level of the armpits, remove the sleeve loops using additional pins or knitting needles. Then continue working to the length that needs to be done.

Women love to wear this model, but for beginners it can be a complex and painstaking knitting technique. Therefore, you should practice on easy work and only then proceed to more complex material.

In order to hide the raglan line, you need to add loops in the starting row. Knit the marks: knit, yarn over and knit. The 3rd row is knitted in the same way as the first. It turns out that the raglan line will be hidden by knitting a yarn over. Thus, the addition of loops is invisible on the finished product. This unique option creates an invisible integrity of the fabric. The raglan line is especially well hidden in openwork patterns, where there are many capes.

Unrolled fabric and seamless knitting

There are many types of sleeve manufacturing. These include unfolded fabric (sewn together upon completion) and seamless knitting.

For the second method, remove the sleeve loops and transfer them to circular or sock knitting needles. To guide the decrease, select a loop and mark it. Reducing (increasing) the width is carried out according to the general rule, regardless of what yarn, pattern or knitting needles are taken.

When knitting, you need to take into account the fullness of your hands. For normal thickness, a decrease (increase) is made in every sixth row. In the fourth part, they decrease (add) for short and full hands. And in the case, on the contrary, for thinner and longer ones: decrease (add) in every 6-8 rows to lengthen the product. At the end of the product, reduce the loops by knitting 2-3 together in front of the cuff in order to remove excess width for a children's product. They calculate it this way: they look at how many loops there are on the edge of the sleeve itself. Then they take into account the amount in the cuff and determine the difference. Calculate how long to make the reduction and distribute it evenly across the width.

This method is very simple and easy to perform. When knitting for a long time, your hands do not get tired. This method is suitable for jacquard, patterns, small parts of sweaters, braids, spikelets, checks, heavy fabric, etc.

Knit on short needles from right to left first. Having reached the end, the thread is transferred to the finger of the opposite hand and knitted on the other side in the opposite direction. The product is not turned over. So they continue, now in one direction, then in the other. As the product expands, loops are added (decreased). After finishing the work, sew it together.

Shaped armhole

Now you need to study the description of how to correctly knit a sleeve armhole with knitting needles. For the first works, it is recommended to take models from magazines with a detailed description of all stages of manufacturing the product, since for beginners it will be difficult to master complex work. They begin to knit independent patterns only after they have begun to understand the principle of constructing various lines.

Uniqueness is the main and important quality of things made with your own hands. In this case, the models will acquire an original form and they will have their own calculation of additions (decreases). Now let's look at a type of set-in product, where you can start knitting a sleeve from the top of the shoulder with knitting needles.

Knit a row down to the edge, from under it (front or back) the thread is pulled out to form a loop. Turn around and start from this place. Insert a loop into the pattern. Next, knit to the edge and repeat. The fragment is expanding. Knit until the end of the armhole. Gradually decreasing, the sleeve is completed.

The principle of sleeve expansion remains the same as in previous methods of knitting sleeves:

• In each row the okat is reduced by numbers.
• Do not knit four stitches together right away, but bind off in the first row. Reach the end.
• From the wrong side, also make 4 sts.
• Knit 3 loops on each side.
• We continue our work further.
• In 18 rows, decrease by loop.
• At the end, close off the remaining loops completely.

Now you can try to knit simple sleeves for beginners first, and then take on more complex projects. In the future, very beautiful products will begin to be produced, even no worse than professional ones. It all depends on the experience gained.

Attention, TODAY only!

How to knit a sleeve without a pattern It happens that we knit a pattern for which we do not have a knitting description. And we often face the fact that we have problems with how to knit a sleeve, how to correctly calculate the loops to expand the sleeve and form its edge. In this article I will tell you how to knit sleeves with knitting needles that are narrowed towards the wrist, how to calculate the number of added loops needed to widen the sleeve upward without a pattern, and also how to knit a sleeve cap using knitting needles, using a method of decreasing loops that is suitable for knitting any knitting needles and yarn, regardless of knitting density. Sleeves can be knitted in several ways - from bottom to top, from the beginning of the sleeve to the top point of the hem, from top to bottom, from the top point of the sleeve to its bottom, and also in cross knitting - from one side seam to the other. Now we will look at how to knit a sleeve with knitting needles from the bottom up. How to knit a sleeve from the beginning to the piping line: 1. The first thing, before we start knitting a sleeve with knitting needles, are three main measurements: the length of the sleeve from the beginning of the sleeve to the piping line (to the armpit), the width of the sleeve at the bottom, narrowest part and the width of the sleeve in the upper, wide part. If the sleeve starts at a cuff or lapel, measure the length of the sleeve from the end of the cuff. 2. Determine the number of loops corresponding to the measurements of the width of the sleeve in the narrow and wide parts. Next, count the number of rows that correspond to the length of the sleeve. You can read how to do this here. 3. Now we determine the number of loops that need to be added to expand the sleeve. To do this, subtract the number of loops in the narrowest part from the number of loops in the widest part. Since we will be adding loops on both sides of the sleeve, the resulting number must be divided by two. 4. To determine how many rows you need to add loops, divide the number of rows corresponding to the length of the sleeve by the number obtained above. The resulting value corresponds to the number of rows through which you need to add loops. Example: sleeve width at the bottom is 20 cm, which is 40 loops, width at the top is 36 cm = 72 loops, sleeve length is 50 cm = 130 rows. Let's calculate: (72 loops - 40 loops): 2 = 16,130 rows: 16 = 8.125, rounded to 8. The resulting value shows that additions must be made in every 8th row, 1 loop from the left and right edges of the sleeve. If you get an odd number, for example 7, then this means that the additions must be made alternately: in the 6th and then in the 8th rows. Advice: there is the following pattern in adding loops when knitting narrow sleeves - if the arms are long and thin, then additions are made in every 6-8 rows, for arms of normal length and fullness - in every 6th row, and if the arms are full and short - then in every 4. How best to make additions. The most optimal way to add loops to expand the sleeve is the following: at the beginning of the row in which you need to make additions, remove the edge yarn, knit the yarn over towards you, then knit a row, and before the edge yarn over we knit another yarn over. In the next purl row, these yarn overs should be knitted with facial loops behind the back wall. How to knit an okat sleeve: 1. To knit an okat we need one measurement: the width of the sleeve at the widest part (we measured it above). We perform all calculations for half a sleeve. In our example, this is 72 loops, divide by 2, we get 36 2. Divide the resulting number of loops into 3 parts. If a number comes out with a remainder, then we add it to the first (outermost) part. We divide the loops of each of the three parts into groups as follows: - divide half of the parts of the first part into threes, the second half into twos; - all loops of the first part are divided into units; - the loops of the third part are divided into triplets; if the loops are divided with the remainder, then we add it to the last, central group. 3. The loops of the first and third parts must be closed in every second row. The loops of the second part must be closed as follows: the first third of the loops must be closed in every 2nd row, the second third of the loops must be closed in every 4th row, the third third of the loops must be closed again in every 2nd row. Example: 36: 3 = 12, that is, there will be 12 loops in each of the three parts. We close the loops as follows: first the first part of the loops - 2 times 3 loops, then 3 times 2 loops. Next, close the second part of the loops - 12 times, 1 loop each. Then close the third part of the loops - 4 times 3 loops. In our example, we divide 12 loops into three parts = 4 loops. Cast off 4 times, 1 loop in each 2nd row, 4 times, 1 loop in each 4th row, 4 times, 1 loop in each 2nd row. These values ​​are calculated for one half of the sleeve; we knit the second half of the sleeve symmetrically. How best to make decreases: At the beginning of the front row, close off the previously calculated number of loops (in our example, 3 loops), knit the row to the end, turn the knitting and at the beginning of the next, purl row, close off the same number of loops, knit the row to the end. At the beginning of the next front row we repeat the same steps. When only the loops of the last group, right and left, remain on the knitting needles (in our example, these are 3 + 3 = 6 loops), then all the remaining loops must be closed in one step.

Beginning knitters are often afraid to take on the sleeves. In fact, there is nothing impossible about this. This article shows several simple ways to knit sleeves yourself using knitting needles.

Let's start with the simplest method of knitting sleeves, which is very convenient for children's models. Such sleeves can always be knitted to the desired length. An approximate pattern is given in this photo:

The photo shows that the back and front are knitted as a simple rectangle, without knitting the armhole. After connecting the shoulder seams, we cast on loops directly from the edge loops along the armhole line: half the width of the sleeve along the front, half along the back. It should be taken into account that when casting on loops, two loops are cast on from each edge, one behind the front wall, the other behind the back. If the pattern is very voluminous, then you can alternate the set: two loops from one edge, one from the other. Then the armhole will neither gather nor stretch.

Well, if you have no desire to fuss with sleeves, please yourself with a light and warm product.

Learning to correctly calculate rows for decreasing

The number of rows to reduce the sleeve width can be calculated based on the finished front or back. Mentally place the pattern on the shelf or back. The sleeve cuff will fit on the elastic of the main part. Using a ruler, measure the required length of the sleeve and half its width. Now connect the intersection point of these lines with the beginning of the cuff. It will be immediately clear after how many rows you need to decrease the loops.

Exactly the same calculation will be for knitting from the bottom, from the cuff. Only the loops will need to be cast on, not reduced. To avoid holes, it is better to knit an additional loop from the loop of the previous row, and not with a yarn over.

We knit sleeves using knitting needles using the raglan technique

You can quite simply knit a raglan sleeve on top. This method allows you to try on the product as you knit it: the location of the armpits, the length of the sleeve, the length of the product. The figure below shows an approximate diagram of a product with raglan sleeves:

Based on the pattern, calculate the number of stitches needed for the neckline. If there is no fastener, then you can start knitting on sock knitting needles. As the number of loops increases, switch to circular ones. If the model has a fastener, then you can knit on straight knitting needles.

Divide the number of cast-on loops by 4; the raglan line will run along these loops. If the sleeves are knitted on straight needles, then divide one of the parts in half for the fastener.

Mark the loops of the raglan lines with colored thread or pins so that you don’t miss them when you start working. This photo shows very clearly how to knit sleeves on top:

If knitting is done in the round, then increases are made in every odd row. If knitting is done on straight needles, then increase in the front rows, knit the purl rows according to the pattern.

If you want the raglan line to be clearly visible, then always knit the marked stitches, and make additions before and after them, as shown in the photo:

Adding loops can be done either by yarn over or by knitting two loops from one. Yarns create holes in the pattern, while knitted loops maintain an even, smooth fabric. Depending on the chosen pattern, you can choose one or another method of adding loops.

Knit this way up to the armpit level. Next, the sleeve loops are removed using additional knitting needles or pins. Continue knitting the main parts of the raglan sleeve to the required length.

Such sleeves are used when, because this is a complex and painstaking technique.

Seamless knitting and unrolled fabric

You can continue making the sleeve in two ways: seamless and unfolded fabric, which is then stitched.

For seamless knitting, the removed sleeve stitches are picked up on sock or circular knitting needles. Mark a loop that will serve as a guide for reducing the width of the sleeve. Regardless of the pattern, the thickness of the yarn and knitting needles, or the size of the product, there is a general rule for decreasing (adding) the width of the sleeve.

For arms of normal thickness and length, decreasing (adding) stitches is done every 6th row. If the arms are full and short - in every 4th row. With thin and long arms, decreasing (adding) loops is done every 6-8 rows. In children's models, once the required sleeve length has been reached, the excess width can simply be collected before knitting the cuff by decreasing loops 2-3 together in the last row. Count how many stitches you need for the cuff and how many are left in the row in front of the cuff. Determine the difference in stitches and distribute them evenly across the row, calculating after how many loops you will need to decrease.

We try to hide the raglan line with our own hands

If you want to know how to hide the raglan line, then we answer - adding loops in the first row is done by knitting three from the marked loop: knit, yarn over, knit. The next row is knitted according to the pattern. In the third row, adding loops is done from a knitted yarn over as well: knit, yarn over, knit. Thus, the raglan line will always follow the knitted yarn over. The photo below clearly shows that the place where the loops were added is almost invisible.

This original method allows you to create the appearance of the integrity of the canvas; it is more suitable for openwork patterns with a large number of yarn overs. This will hide the raglan line.

This type of sleeve is ideal for knitting, which even a beginner can knit.

Schemes describing the creation of a figured armhole

And finally, it’s time to describe how to correctly knit a sleeve with a figured armhole. Since the article is intended for beginner knitters, for the first knitters I would advise choosing models from magazines with a detailed description of the sequence of knitting parts. Once you understand the principle of knitting various lines, you can begin to create your own patterns.

The good thing about handmade things is their originality. Therefore, each model has its own sleeve shape and the calculation of increases and decreases is also different. But still, I will give several ways to knit the okat of a set-in sleeve.

Just as in the previous methods, the set-in sleeve can be started from the top and bottom. One of the ways to knit an okat from below is shown in the figure below:

• The principle of sleeve expansion remains the same as in previous methods of knitting sleeves.
• The numbers on the sleeve cap show how many stitches need to be decreased in each row.
• In the first row of the okat we immediately close off (do not knit together!) 4 loops. We knit the row to the end.
• Turn it to the wrong side and then close the same 4 loops.
• In the next row we already knit 3 loops together on each side.
• And so on according to the knitting pattern.
• The designation 1x18 means that in the next 18 rows you need to decrease 1 loop.
• In the last, top row, close off the remaining few loops at once.

Knitting an original pattern without using a pattern

If you decide to knit your model without a pattern, then this method of knitting a set-in sleeve cap may be suitable.

1. In the first row of the okat we close off 3 loops.
2. We make all the decreases in the front rows.
3. In the 3rd and 5th rows we decrease 2 loops from each edge, i.e. knit 3 loops together.
4. In the next 12 front rows we decrease 1 loop (knit 2 together).
5. Then 2 times 2 loops (3 together), once 3, once 4 loops.
6. Close off the remaining stitches in one row.

Product creation short rows quickly and easily

If you know how to knit in short rows, then you can use the following method of knitting a sleeve cap.

1. In the first row we close the same 3-4 loops.
2. And you do not knit the same number of stitches to the end of each front row as indicated in the previous method.
3. Those. Having not completed the required number of stitches to the end of the row, turn the work and go back.
4. It’s better to write down the decrease pattern so that you don’t have to calculate again in the second sleeve.
5. If you have enough thread, it is better to run both sleeves parallel at once.

It is a little more difficult to knit such a sleeve on top, but you won’t have to sew it in. Therefore, it is better to watch the master class in the video below.

If you haven’t mastered the sleeve knitting technique, try knitting it yourself.

Video for beginners

We hope that things you knit yourself will bring joy to you and your loved ones for a long time.

Message quote Knitting a sleeve with knitting needles. 7 ways + tips

From the whole variety of knitted products, we can single out models that more clearly emphasize the lines of the figure and shape the silhouette. These are models with set-in sleeves. How to knit such a sleeve correctly, the armhole for this type of sleeve, and, finally, how to sew in such a sleeve, you will read on these pages. For greater clarity, the description of the work is given with pictures.

Calculation and knitting of the sleeve to the edge (Fig. 173).

The calculation is quicker to do for half a sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:

3 p. X 10 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

3 p. X 18 cm = 54 p.

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve: 54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.

Measure the distance from the beginning of the flare on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference is in the loops). 34cm: 24 ~1.4 cm. Count the number of edges in 1.4cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row. Let's look at how best to do this.

Cast on the required number of loops on the knitting needles (30 sts. X 2 = 60 sts), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2 - 4 rows and make the first addition: at the beginning of the front row, remove the edge yarn and, making a yarn over (toward you), knit a row, at the end of it, in front of the edge yarn over, throw another yarn over. In the next purl row, knit the yarn over with the front loops behind the back wall.

Continue knitting, making similar increases on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the knitting needle (54 sts X 2 = 108 sts).

In order not to lose count, mark each time with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which you made an addition. These marks will also be useful when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Let's take a look at this calculation.

Divide the number of loops in segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 p. : 3 = 18 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups. Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3+3+3+2+2+2+2=17), add the remainder to the first number (3+1=4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3+3+3+3+3+3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first digit, counting from the high point of the roll (point O).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Let's start knitting the okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, or at the beginning of the purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

Knitting technique

The edge of the knitted fabric turns out vertical if it is knitted straight, that is, no decreases or increases are made (see photo 1).

The edge of the fabric turns out to be inclined if the same number of loops is reduced or added. On our sample (see photo 2) in every 2nd r. one loop is decreased. A concave rounding is formed if the loops are closed in order of decreasing their number (see photo 3). For this sample, close 5,4,3,2 and 1 loop in sequence. A convex rounding is formed if the loops are closed in order of increasing their number (see photo 4). In this case, 1,2,3,4 and 5 loops are closed in sequence. The edge of the product is horizontal if a certain number of loops are closed in one row (see photo 5).

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Rolled sleeves

A sleeve with a collar is slightly narrower than a sleeve with a straight top edge. In the lower part of the sleeve with a bevel, as a rule, a smaller number of loops are added. When the calculated sleeve width is reached, knitting of the okat begins. It consists of a concave round, a bevel, a convex round and ends with a horizontal edge with closed loops (see diagram 10).

The height of the collar depends on the depth of the armhole and the width of the sleeve. In order for your knitted piece to match the pattern drawing given in the magazine, you must adhere to the specified knitting density.

The puff sleeves are strongly gathered in the shoulder area. Instead of a rounded edge, such a sleeve ends with a straight edge (see diagram 11).

Here are some more ways to knit a sleeve:

Correctly knitting a sleeve from the shoulder line is a difficult matter.
Why is there not a single pattern for knitting sleeves?
We all have different clothing sizes and heights.
It is clear that for size 52 with a height of 155 cm and for size 42 with a height above 170 cm you need to knit differently. And it’s not about the volume, but about the length and width of the sleeve.
And of course, the density of the knitting pattern, the size of the threads and knitting needles influences.
Well, no, so there is no consensus on how to knit the armhole.
We will present several patterns for knitting sleeve caps, which have been tested by craftswomen and from them you can easily choose the one that suits your build, knitting density, and is simply more understandable to you.

1 way.
Cast off at the beginning, 4 stitches on each side. - 1 time, 3 pets. - 1 time,
Then, in every second row, close three together.
Closing the loops can be done after the first two stitches have been knitted.
More precisely, we remove one edge, knit the second loop with the front one - on the front side of the product, the purl - on the wrong side of the product. And then three together.
This way the decreases will not be visible, and the edge will be smooth without steps.
We close three together on each side until about 12 cm remains on the knitting needle. We close 4 loops - 3-4 times. Cast off the remaining stitches at once.
The correspondence between the width and length of the product is adjusted using threads.

Method 2.
— Divide all loops by 2
For example, 100 loops. 100/2 = 50 sleeve consists of two halves (left and right)
- then again by two. 50/2 = 25 is the lower part of the okat and the upper one.

— Then we divide 25 into 3 parts (9+8+8).
We close the 1st part at once, the 2nd part into 2-3 groups (for bevel) (5+3, 4+4), the third part we close 2 at a time, 1 at a time, every other row at 1, depending on the height of the edging. We close the second 25 loops in the reverse order.

I learned this method about 7 years ago, and it always turns out great.

3 way
Knitting a sleeve cap.
Knit the sleeve up to the armhole level. Count the number of loops across the sleeve width at the armhole level and divide them by 2 (1/2 the sleeve width at the armhole level). Divide the resulting number of loops into 3 equal parts, for example 54 loops: 3 parts = 18 loops. If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part.
Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.
Divide the loops of the first part - the first half into threes and the second into twos (3+3+3+2+2+2+2=17), add the remainder to the first number (3+1=4).
Divide the loops of the second part into units (18 units);
Loops of the 3rd part into triplets (3+3+3+3+3+3=18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first number, counting from the high point of the circle. Apply the result to the pattern.
Now knit like this: at the beginning of the front row, cast off 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also bind off 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches as calculated at the beginning of each knit and purl row until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.
For the first third of the stitches of the 2nd part (18 stitches: 3 = 6 stitches), decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and end of each knit row.
Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row.
Decrease the last third (6 stitches) like the first.
Close the loops of the 3rd part according to the calculation in the same way as in the first part, at the beginning of each front row and at the beginning of each purl row.
When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (i.e. 3 loops on the right side of the sleeve and 3 loops on the left side of the sleeve), close in a row.

4 way

I knit in short rows, and then close the okat completely in one row. And it is better to do this on needles of a smaller number. Then (if it is not a dropped shoulder) the edge will sit as if sewing.
So, short rows for the sleeves.
First, we determine the width, for example, 72p., then approximately the height of the edging - about 30r. To begin, close 1x3p, 2x2p on both sides. =58p. Then in every 2nd (or in every 4th, if the height is more than our approximate 30 rows) when knitting a row, we do not knit the last 2 stitches, wrap the thread behind the 2nd stitch, turn the part over and repeat in the same way in subsequent rows . You definitely need to count or write down the rows so that it turns out symmetrically with the second sleeve. It's better to knit 2 at the same time.

5 way
I usually knit sleeves like this: I close 3 loops once, 2 times 2, 12 times one, then again 2 times 2, once 3, 1 time four and then all the other loops. This is if we knit with 2.5-3 needles. If the knitting needles and threads are thicker, then I decrease it like this: 1 time 3, 1 time 2, 9 times one at a time, 2 times 2, 1 time 3, and all the rest last. This way you always get a beautiful, even pellet.

6 way
To knit a sleeve cap well, I came up with the following technique. I draw a life-size sleeve pattern on tracing paper and apply it to the knitted and processed back panel. I emphasize - for processed, i.e. dampened (washed), dried, ironed. This is so that in the future the knitted sleeve matches the pattern.
So, I move the sleeve pattern from tracing paper along the back panel and choose how the design should lie. The main signs of quality: complete repetition of the report at the very top of the rim and symmetry of the pattern. The canvas is clearly visible through the tracing paper. You finally decide for yourself and fix the pattern in the chosen position.
Then I draw with a pen along the edge of the edging on the pattern, repeating the patterns of the canvas. It immediately becomes clear how to make decreases. I hope I made it clear.
It goes without saying that the pattern of the product must be thought out and calculated in advance. I only make the sleeve in full size.

Sleeve shape

For those who do not like a patched, straight-set sleeve, we can offer three sleeve options where the shoulder seam is moved to the shoulder.

Sewing on a sleeve

The sleeve must be sewn in so that it fits correctly.

Sleeve tied at top

Sleeves at the top are most often knitted in children's pullovers. These sleeves have a good fit and can be easily lengthened in the future.

The sleeve cap is knitted in short rows. By measuring the width of the shoulder two centimeters below the armpits and adding 4 cm to the resulting figure for children and 8 cm for adults, the number of loops is calculated.

Having typed the resulting number of loops, knit the 1st row to the middle + 2.5 cm, then turn the knitting, make a tight yarn over and knit in the opposite direction for about 5 cm.

Now knit through the middle, picking up 1 loop from the calculated ones on each side. After the 2nd row, the knitting is turned again, yarn over and knitted to the yarn over of the previous row. The yarn over and the loop following it are knitted together. Having turned the work, make a yarn over and knit in the opposite direction.

With each row, new loops are captured. The sleeve roll is ready when all the loops are captured on both sides. Next, the sleeve is knitted to the required length.

• It is important from the very beginning of training to pay special attention to the density of knitting. It is necessary to make all parts with the same density; if this does not work yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be unraveled and tied again
• Before you start knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: baste it, put it on your hand and check whether it is the length and width required. After making sure that the work is done correctly, continue knitting.
• When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. It has been noticed: if the arm length measurement is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then increases on the sleeve have to be made in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is necessary - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. With full and short arms (48-51 cm), loops on the sleeve should be added every 4th row. Knowing this, you can avoid calculating the additions according to the pattern and knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.
• When knitting a sleeve to the end, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue knitting in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but keep in mind that the second sleeve must be done in exactly the same way.
• If the sleeves are made with a bouclé pattern, then gradually incorporate the loops added to widen them into the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of stockinette knitting (for example, strands or slipped loops on the purl stitch), then knit new loops on the front side of the work, purling them, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the sleeve seam will be soft and neat.

You can also draw a sleeve pattern, apply it to an already knitted part - a front or back (if the sleeve is knitted with the same pattern) and calculate each row, writing down in detail where to add and where to subtract. And then knit according to this record.

• The height of the armhole and sleeve cap should not be the same. The sleeve cap is slightly larger! If you make the same lengths, then the sleeve will be cut. This is because the armhole for the sleeve is more straight, and the hem is curved. In general, there are tricks when sewing in a sleeve.
  The knitwear is movable and needs to be pulled in some places (from above), and in some places, on the contrary, it needs to be gathered (from the sides).
  The type of sleeve will depend on how the okat is knitted and how it is sewn.

• 1) The armholes on the back are made equal in height to the armholes in the front and often even shorter. In reality, the armhole on the back should be almost always higher (longer) than on the front, even by 1-2 cm. The stooped the back, the more you need to pay attention when creating a pattern to the proper increase in the height of the armhole on the back (exceptions include only childish ones). things)

• 2) The shoulder bevel is done the same way on the front and back. In reality, the bevel on the front should be 1-2 cm more than on the back.

• 3) The neckline on the back is often made very narrow and small, as a result of this you should not forget about the required depth and width of the neckline.
  If these mistakes were made, then subsequent flaws are likely: the shoulder seams will begin to “run” back (the reason is a very short armhole on the back and an incorrect shoulder bevel), the jacket or blouse will begin to lag behind the neck and the entire product will begin to “run” back ( the reason is a narrow and small neckline on the back).