For beginning knitters, knitting a set-in sleeve often becomes a big obstacle to their dream. I was like that myself: I avoided models with set-in sleeves and instead knitted sleeves with a straight armhole (but most often this option is good only for baby clothes), and a little later I got the hang of knitting raglan and for a long time did not dare to move on. Then I began to study the theory of constructing a sleeve cap, I understood the essence, made notes in a workbook and even sometimes quite successfully applied the knowledge in practice, but it still seemed so tedious to me... until the idea came to me to knit a set-in sleeve, using your favorite item in your wardrobe as a reference.
Author MK -Tamica
Now I use this thing not only for knitting a sleeve cap, but also for calculating all other quantities - the length of the finished product, its width, shoulder width, neck depth, armhole, etc. In fact, the factory sweater has become a ready-made pattern and starting point for the realization of my desires: I like its fit, I know how it sits on me, so by adding/decreasing cm in the right places I can achieve the desired result.
So, I’m telling you how I knit a sleeve cap.
Step 1. Take your favorite sweater and lay it out loosely on a flat surface.
Step 2. I knit a control sample and find out the knitting density. Let these be the following values: 10x10 cm = 21p. x 29r.
Step 3. Before knitting the sleeve, you need to knit the front and back, and accordingly, knit the armholes on them. The question arises: how high should the armhole be? I'm measuring. The height of the armhole is = 18 cm. I translate this value into rows 1.8 x 29r. and I get that the armhole needs to be knitted in 52 rows.
Step 4. I proceed directly to the calculations for knitting the sleeve cap:
- I measure the width of the sleeve = 30 cm and immediately transfer it into loops 3 x 21 sts = 63 loops;
- I measure the height of the sleeve = 11 cm or 1.1 x 29 = 32 rows, for this number of rows it is necessary to knit the entire sleeve sleeve;
- another necessary value is the width of the straight line at the top of the rim. I lay out the sleeve so that the shoulder line is in the center and measure the required value - 11.5 cm. If we turn to the theory of the construction of the sleeve, I came across a recommendation to make the width of the line at the top of the sleeve = 5-6 cm. Perhaps this is a classic sleeve sleeve, but I’m not in the mood for this, just as I don’t like the measured value in the finished blouse, so I’ll allow myself to reduce it and make it = 9 cm, which in terms of loops = 19 loops.
All the necessary measurements have been made, all that remains is to distribute the closure of the loops to form the collar of the set-in sleeve.
I will bring together the information received for a correct presentation:
- before you start knitting the sleeve cap, there are 63 loops on the knitting needles;
- the okat must be completed in 32 rows;
- the width of the straight line at the top of the edge is 19 loops.
Let me remind you that classically any closure of loops is done every 2nd row.
Without getting distracted by the theory of calculating the width of the armhole (although there is nothing complicated here, to create a smooth armhole line, closing the loops is done from a larger number of loops to a smaller number in several passes), I will write what closing of the armhole loops I had: 4,2,1,1. What are these values for? The same closing of loops must be done at the beginning of knitting the sleeve cap, i.e. close every 2nd row on both sides of the stitch fabric in the order 4,2,1,1.
In total, 8 rows are knitted, (4+2+1+1)x2 = 16 loops are closed and 63-16 = 47 loops remain on the knitting needles.
I’ll immediately exclude the loops at the top of the sleeve from the calculations: 47-19 = 28 loops still need to be closed on both sides of the sleeve, respectively, on one side you need to close 28/2 = 14 loops in 22 rows = 32 rubles (total number) - 8 rubles (already knitted)-2p. (to close the central 19 loops).
For a smooth rounded edge on top, I will make the penultimate stitch closures, for example, like this: 2,3,4. This will take 6 rows and 9 loops on each side.
It remains to close the middle 14-9 = 5 okat loops in 22-6 = 16 rows. By casting off one stitch every 2nd row, you will need 10 rows. 6 rows are extra. Removing rows means reducing the height of the edging, which is wrong. The second solution is to slightly change the edging line; it will be almost unnoticeable in the finished product, so I adjust the layout of the loops. For 6 rows you need to get 6 loops, 3 loops on each side of the circle.
Let the width of the line of the top of the edging be not 19, but 17 loops, this will give 2 unused loops, plus I will adjust the penultimate closing loops for the roundness of the edging and instead of this sequence 2,3,4 I will make this 2,2,3, which will free up 2 more loops from each side. A total of 6 required loops have been found and the final layout for closing the loops for the sleeve cap will look like this:
4,2,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,2,3,17,3,2,2,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,4.
The desire to write this entry arose after the questions - how do I knit a sleeve so that it fits so well?
I have been knitting for a long time, since I was 12 years old, and my main teacher was M.V. Maximova’s book “The ABC of Knitting”. It was from this book that I learned how to knit armholes and sleeve caps correctly. Of course, each product requires some changes, but the basic calculations always remain the same.
If you take this method as a basis, then very soon you will have neat set-in sleeves.
I wish everyone good luck
Calculation and knitting of sleeve cap.
To calculate and knit an okat, it is most advisable to use a technique developed by practice. Whatever yarn you use and whatever number of needles you knit from, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the knitting density, only the number of calculation numbers changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer there are.
Let's take a look at this calculation. Divide the number of loops in segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 p. : 3 = 18 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.
Rice. 174 Calculation for knitting an okat
Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 17), add the remainder to the first number (3 + 1 = 4 ).
Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).
Apply the calculation results to the pattern.
Now you can start knitting the okat.
At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.
The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.
Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, or at the beginning of the purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.
When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. Noticed: if the arm length measurement is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then increases on the sleeve have to be made in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is necessary - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. For full and short arms (48-51 cm), loops on the sleeve should be added every 4th row. Knowing this, you can avoid calculating the additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.
When starting to knit a new sweater, each knitter, as a rule, already has an idea of the appearance of the finished product. But you need to determine not only the style, yarn and patterns. It is extremely necessary to approach the issue of patterns very seriously.
Sleeves are the most important detail
After all, if the silhouette on paper is inaccurate, then the details will be very difficult to put together. As for the parts themselves, there are almost never any problems with the main fabrics, but the sleeves should be given special attention.
Variety of models and techniques
There are a huge number of models of knitted clothes with different shapes and sleeve knitting techniques.
And in this article, we will try to figure out what sleeve models exist and how to knit a sleeve.
Sleeve shape
If we talk only about the shape of this part, then the sleeves can be either narrow or wide, straight or flared, long and short. In general, there are a lot of options. But in addition to the form, there is also the style of the product. And it is this style that fully determines how the finished sleeve should look. So, let's figure out what types of sleeves exist.
Sleeve models
Set-in (it is possible to use a lower armhole);
sleeve “without piping line”;
sleeve “with small armhole”;
sleeve “with shoulder straps”;
"raglan";
"bat";
"flashlight";
"kimono".
Despite the fact that all these styles are similar in structure, the knitting technique for each of them is quite specific. Therefore, I would like to dwell on the review of each model.
Set-in sleeve
This sleeve style can be crocheted or knitted. The main feature is the calculation of the order of decrease in loops when knitting the sleeve cap and the armhole of the main fabrics. For an accurate determination, first, knit a sample of the main pattern and measure the density of the loops. After this, the pattern is transferred to graph paper and all the calculations are made.
We knit a set-in sleeve with knitting needles, usually from the bottom. Therefore, for this part of the work you need to choose light straight knitting needles of the desired diameter. When the elastic is knitted to the desired height, the addition of loops begins. The calculations are much simpler here. It is enough to subtract the sum of the stitches of the cast-on row from the number of stitches at the beginning of the lambing of the sleeve. As for the frequency of increases. It is necessary to calculate, based on the density, the number of rows to knit and distribute the additional loops evenly. At the armhole, decreases are made at the very beginning of the row.
Here is the simplest example of decreases:
first, 2 rows: decrease by seven loops;
third, 4 rows: decrease by five loops;
fifth, 8 p.: decrease one loop at a time.
After all the decreases have been made and the required number of rows have been knitted, you need to knit the okat. As a rule, decrease three loops from each edge three times. In the last row, all remaining loops are closed. It is better to do the work wearing an oversleeve.
This type of sleeve can be found in knitting quite often. The hem line of this model is knitted straight, due to the fact that there is no armhole line. Calculations of the increase are made following the example of a stitched sleeve, and for correct joining, large parts are also knitted with straight edges, before the neckline begins to be cut.
Sleeve with shallow armhole
The only difference between this style is that the depth of the armhole and the hem line are narrowed. The rest of the sleeve can be knitted using the basic pattern.
Sleeve with shoulder strap
Sleeve with shoulder strap These sleeves are more often found in products with a pattern of ornaments. “Epaulette” conveys a certain completeness of the pattern itself and the product as a whole. The width of the “epaulet” directly depends on the chosen ornament. The difference between this model and the previous ones is precisely the presence of a “shoulder strap”; it is an addition to the details of the shelf and back. All calculations are no different from the above examples.
We knit this sleeve style both at the top and bottom. If you start knitting from the bottom, then the principle here is the same as when creating a “set-in” sleeve. When the required length is knitted, the lowering of the loops begins. This is usually done through a row, knitting one loop out of two, before and after the edge loop.
When knitting “raglan” on top, it is better to choose circular knitting needles of the required diameter as a tool. The number of loops cast on on top should be a multiple of 6. You also need to take into account the presence of a collar in the product. If it is provided in the product, then you should start knitting from the top with it. If not, then increases along the raglan lines can be made from the very beginning. Knitting is not distributed by 4 knitting needles, but the 5th is the working one.
Raglan sleeves, as a rule, make up a sixth of the total number of loops in the product, the third part is left for large details. Therefore, if the total amount of loops is not a multiple of six, the extra ones need to be distributed between the front and back parts. Adding loops on top is done on all parts at once. Example of a raglan stitch: purl loop, yarn over, two knit stitches, yarn over, purl loop. It should be noted that the yarn over and purl loop are on the front and back pieces, and all other loops are on the sleeve. When the armhole comes to an end, you should knit without increases or decreases (with straight fabric). When the required length is reached, all loops are closed. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.
Pullovers with such sleeves are usually knitted from the lower back and front. In rare cases, knitting begins with sleeve elastic. If you start with large pieces, then you need to knit a straight fabric before the start of the armhole. The additions at the beginning of the armhole do not have to be done right away. You can cast on the required number of loops at the beginning of one row and do the same in the next, and this addition can be done in 2-3 times. When knitting a product “from the sleeve”, the sleeve is knitted like a stitch. Then loops are cast on for large parts. The key feature of this style is the mirror image of the details. The loops are closed in the order they are cast on. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.
The main feature of this type of sleeve is the creation of a tight cuff. A tight cuff is necessary for the flashlight to keep its shape. In this case, the addition of loops occurs evenly, and their total number at the end should exceed the initial set by three or even four times. Only in this case will the “flashlight” turn out magnificent. The required number of loops is calculated based on the density of the thread. After all, if the thread is too soft, the sleeve will simply hang.
First you need to link a sample of work, taking into account the progress of additions. It is better to mark the increases; this will help when working with the second “flashlight” and it is more convenient to do this with colored markers or pins. When making an okata, it is better to use a pattern; this will minimize errors in knitting, and the shape will be correct.
It is also necessary to take into account in the work that the edge of the armhole should be rounded. Depending on how the sleeves are knitted, the curves can be convex or concave. In the first case, there is usually a sequential increase in loops. In the second case, the loops are decreased and closed in the reverse order (5th, 4th, 3rd, etc.). But in addition to this, you also need to take into account the height of the armhole itself, which should coincide with the height of the rim of the “flashlight”. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.
Kimono sleeve
This model is one of the simplest in terms of execution technique. She is also without lambing.
To cast on the stitches of the initial row, first determine the starting point of the armhole. Then, in several stages, groups consisting of five or more loops are assembled. The number of techniques directly depends on the expected length of the sleeve. We knit on all loops until a height equal to the width of the sleeve is reached. Then the decreases begin. Deductions should be made in the same way as additions, only in reverse order.
Another feature of products with kimono sleeves is the V-shaped neckline. Its knitting usually begins with increases. Increases are made to round the transition of the armhole to the side seam. It is extremely rare that I knit this neckline in accordance with the desired depth.
And, based on this, the beginning of the sleeve is located in the very middle of the side seam; adding loops here is necessary to round off the place where the side seam goes into the armhole, and then into the sleeve seam. Usually, one loop is added in several rows.
These are not all existing models. In fact, each model of any product is unique. The above are just basic descriptions and notes.
Not the last place in a knitted product is occupied by the sleeves, because they are the ones who give the item a complete look. Most often, inexperienced needlewomen find it difficult to make a set-in sleeve, since a good fit requires precise calculation of the roll and decrease along the armhole line. If knitting a sleeve is also a difficult task for you, use our advice, substituting the required dimensions into the proposed calculations.
How to knit a sleeve with knitting needles - measurements
We will knit a 3/4 sewn-in sleeve from the bottom up, but first, take measurements and make calculations.
- Measure the circumference of your arm at the bottom edge of the sleeve, let’s say it’s 24 cm and the wide area below the armpit is 40 cm.
- Knit a sample measuring 10 by 10 cm and count the number of loops horizontally and rows vertically.
- Let's say you succeeded - 24 p. for 33 rubles. Accordingly, make a proportion and calculate the width of the sleeve (in loops) from the bottom (A A1):
10 cm – 24 p.
24 cm – X p.
It turns out: 24 x 24: 10 = 57.6 p. Round in the desired direction, for example 59 p.
- Similarly, find the top part (B B1) - 40 x 24: 10 = 96 p.
- Determine the expansion of the fragment by making the following calculations: (96 – 59): 2 = 18.5 p., which means you will add that much on each side of the sleeve.
By the way: you don’t have to calculate the increase in stitches by row, but try the folk method - add 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every sixth row.
How to knit a sleeve with knitting needles - calculating the cut
The collar is the upper rounded edge of the sleeve, which along the armhole line connects the back and the front. Make a pattern for 1/2 of the sleeve, taking half the loops of the widest part of the arm - 96: 2 = 48 sts. Draw a diagram similar to ours, but with your own data.
- Divide 48 sts into three = 16 sts. Divide the first part in half and close in the first part two times with 3 sts, one with two, and in the second four times with 2 sts.
- In the second part - 1 stitch on 2 sides in every second row.
- Divide the loops of the third part into triplets; if there is a remainder, add it to the center of the sleeve and close - 4 times 3 stitches each. Knit the remaining loops in one step.
Tip: close the armhole and the hem equally, then they will sit evenly in the armpits.
How to knit a sleeve with knitting needles - sewing
The sleeve is knitted, all that remains is to sew it in correctly. How to do it? Memo:
- Sew the sleeve and mark the middle of the collar, then turn the item inside out and insert the sleeve into the armhole. Align the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam;
- Sew from the bottom along the wrong side from the side seam to the end of the rounded part of the armhole;
- turn it over to the other side and work on the face to control the process;
- Sew on, grabbing 2 loops on the back and the same number on the sleeve. If it gathers somewhere, take three or four loops in one needle step, then the fit will be smooth and the center of the collar will coincide with the shoulder seam;
- along the front, work with purl stitch until the armhole is rounded (the principle is the same as in the previous paragraph). Turn the fabric inside out and sew with a regular seam.
The sleeve is sewn on. Repeat the manipulation with the second workpiece and consider the job done.
Now you know that knitting a sleeve is not difficult. The most important thing is to take measurements correctly, stick to the constructed pattern and carefully connect the parts.
Hello.
In general, I don’t often knit sweaters, jackets or pullovers. And every time I am faced with the question of how to tie the sleeves so that everything is beautiful and the product fits well. How to calculate the required number of loops for expanding a sleeve and for knitting a sleeve cap without a pattern.
Let me note that I don’t like things knitted using this pattern:
To ensure that your pullover emphasizes the lines of the silhouette, it is better to choose a set-in sleeve with a collar and make appropriate reductions for the armhole.
Now I’m just knitting a pullover (that’s why the question arose once again: How to knit sleeves with knitting needles?).
I'll show you calculation of loops for knitting sleeves using my example (I have ¾ sleeves).
We determine the sizes.
First we need to take 3 measurements:
Sleeve width at the bottom (A A1)
Sleeve width at the top (at the widest part near the armpit) (B B1)
Sleeve length from bottom to hem line (see Fig. 2)
Taking into account the knitting density, we convert cm to the number of loops.
In my case, the knitting density is 24 p. x 33 p. = 10 x 10 cm
Let's make a proportion: 10 cm - 24 p.
and at 24 cm - X,
X = 24 cm x 24 p.: 10 cm = 57.6 p. (considering the number of loops in the pattern I use, I cast on 59 p.)
Similarly, we calculate the number of loops in the widest part of the sleeve:
Y = 40 cm x 24 p.: 10 cm = 96 p.
Now we find the difference (the number of loops that need to be added)
96 p. – 59 p. = 37 p.
It turns out that you need to add 18 loops (37: 2 = 18.5) on each side of the sleeve.
But then you don’t have to worry about calculating the series, because It was experimentally discovered that when knitting sleeves, increases are usually made in every 6th row (along the loop at the beginning and end of the row). If you need a looser sleeve, you can alternate increases in the 4th and 6th rows, or in every 4th.
How to knit okat sleeves:
Previously, I made patterns and reduced loops in accordance with the drawing. But not so long ago I found on the Internet a way to knit sleeves without a pattern. This method can be found on several sites, so I can’t say who the author is.
So, I’m showing how I knitted the sleeves, based on the ready-made calculation. We will use half of the drawing. (see Fig. 3)
First, divide 48 sts into 3 parts = 16 sts each (if you have a remainder, add it to the first (lower) part of the sleeve cap).
The first part is divided in half: in the 1st half we close off 3 p., in the 2nd half - 2 p.
The second part is divided into 3 parts. Here we decrease 1 stitch in every 2nd row, only in the middle third - in every 4th row.
The third part is divided into triplets. The remainder (if any) is added to the very top center portion of the sleeve.
That's all.
From my own experience, I can only say that in the 2nd part I did it first, as described above, but it seemed to me that it turned out to be very long. I had to unravel and knit the entire 2nd part, decreasing 1 stitch at a time. on both sides of every 2nd row.
Now you know how to knit a sleeve.
