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Why do sailors wear bell-bottom pants? Why did sailors wear bell-bottom trousers? The history of flared trousers

Papa Muller asked a question

Why did the navy start to fashion flared trousers?
Then some publication informed the world that it was because it was easier to pull them off (with flares) if a sailor suddenly fell into the water. Logical? Yeah.
The whole point is, why take off your trousers after falling into the water - no one seems to bother with this question...

And I remembered my school days. The flares weren't the problem! They were proud of this.

Let me remind you that throughout high school, my father was a senior officer - an engineer-lieutenant colonel. He wore a black uniform, a naval uniform. He was given a new uniform very often, and his father was a neat guy. The uniform was like new for years. Even shirts! And he supplied me with naval clothes.

When I was a child, in elementary school, I had pants and a coat sewn from pieces that my father received. It was great fabric! But when I grew big, my father began to bring me a full set of uniforms in my size! The overcoat was slightly altered, but the shirts and trousers matched completely. And for the first time I put on navy sailor pants. And went to school.

Now it will be interesting for mothers who have boys and know how to sew.

The sailors' naval trousers do not have a fly (aka a naval codpiece). The front of the pants has the so-called flap and fastened with buttons on the sides. And the officers have a codpiece.

I remember how in the 7th grade I came to class and everyone looked with interest at my new pants - they had flares! - and when he said and showed that the sailors didn’t have a fly and I didn’t have any pants either, everyone laughed. It was unsightly for me...

And then I came up with it. He said proudly - the valve is the most beautiful thing for quick sex))) and in crowded places))). And all the boys looked with respect))... Bluffing at the right time is a wonderful thing))

Let's skip the versions that everyone repeats - about Peter the Great and sex, about Catherine the Great and the naked member of a sailor - and let's talk about the two main versions.

First. To quickly take off your pants in the water. And bell-bottoms for this purpose, so that you can take off your trousers without taking off your boots. This is the most common version. But I prefer the second one.

For some reason they forgot about the true version of the trouser flap - the military uniform is the most thoughtful clothing, undoubtedly, the naval uniform too. And everything in it is subordinated to practicality. The origin of this cut with a flap came from the sailor clothing of Dutch sailors. This is so that when you descend from the yard along the rope, you don’t get caught in clothes or tear your clothes... That's all.

No, one more thing. If you have a tailcoat and a tailcoat set, then you also don’t have a fly or codpiece on your trousers! A strange relationship - a sailor and his trousers, an aristocrat and his trousers...

No, it's not easy! Your versions?

***
From the maritime forum:

When I saw the future dress uniform of the sailors and foremen of the fleet, I was very upset. It began to resemble the uniform of the ground forces: the same caps, tunics... There are no longer caps with ribbons, no vests, no “Dutch shirts”, no guys... But this was, one might say, the whole “zest” of the sailor uniform! What kind of sailor is this in a cap and not a cap?! And the everyday uniform, the robe, became in many ways similar to the similar American Navy uniform (again, a blind copying of everything Western). For example, it is made of cloth, which is almost never seen in modern uniforms. This wool uniform, in turn, has a number of advantages: it is warm, “breathes,” repels water, is reliable and does not wear out for a long time. It is also diverse. For example, in cold weather, sailors and foremen wore blue cloth Dutch shoes, and in warm weather, white cotton Dutch shoes. The caps were both black and white, etc.

I confirm. The cloth is magnificent, now it’s foreign trash instead of Soviet splendor! We're drowning...

Flared trousers in addition to a vest create an image of a sailor that is recognizable at first glance. This is exactly how even children imagine a sailor. But why do sailors wear just such trousers, and not, for example, tapered ones? Where did this form come from, and for what reason was it introduced? Do such trousers have any practical features that are relevant specifically for sailors, useful for them in practice? Why did this style appear specifically within the naval uniform?

If you look deeper into all the nuances, some things will become obvious. It was no coincidence that these trousers appeared in the uniform of sailors in many countries around the world.

The history of flared trousers

Bell-bottomed trousers actually originate from the navy and are an integral part of maritime traditions. Sailors wore trousers widened at the bottom back in the days of sailing ships. According to traditions and norms, the flaring down on trousers began from the hip, and the name of such clothing comes from the French word for bell - cloche. Despite the French origin of this name, such clothing was officially introduced first in the American Navy, this happened in 1810. In Russia, they switched to this form a little later, and trousers of this cut were called not only bell-bottoms, but also pipes. Before this, sailors usually wore wide canvas or cotton pants.

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The practical component of bell-bottom trousers

There is no 100% accurate version of the origin of these trousers, but all researchers are inclined to believe that this shape was not chosen by chance, but for practical reasons. This is an exceptionally comfortable cut that allows sailors to carry out their daily duties comfortably and without unnecessary problems. The trousers provide mobility, the ability to do physical work, and at the same time easily roll up if necessary, for example, to scrub the deck without getting them wet. You can roll up your pants when going ashore from a boat that is not completely moored. They are extremely convenient when it is necessary to climb along the yard.


The work of a sailor always involves the risk of falling into the water and ending up in the sea. Clothing should provide maximum opportunities for survival in this case. Bell-bottomed trousers show their best side in this situation as well. If you need to immediately get rid of your clothes to avoid going under, you can take these pants off right through your boots. An old type of fastener called a lapel, as well as a flap at the front, ensured that even in water the pants could be removed in a matter of seconds. Other items of clothing were also designed for this, the naval jacket has a wide neckline, it can be easily removed over the head, and boots usually did not have lacing, but rubber inserts (after the invention of the process of vulcanizing rubber in 1839), which also simplified getting rid of them.

Interesting fact : the sailors were proud of their uniform, not only for its practical qualities, but also for its beauty. When going ashore, bell-bottom trousers had pieces of lead sewn into the lower part of the trousers - at the same time, the trouser legs swelled in the wind, they swayed beautifully. However, this was punishable, and you could get a reprimand from your superiors. These actions were equated to damage to the uniform.

History of flares in the Russian fleet

Return of flares to the fleet

Bell-bottomed trousers did not always appear in naval uniforms. At the end of the 19th century, the Russian navy already featured straight, not too wide trousers made of black cloth or wool. After all, sailboats gradually faded into oblivion, the specifics of the sailor’s work became different, and because of this, the uniform began to change. However, wide trousers soon returned again - in 1909 they became fashionable in civilian environments. Soon they return to the fleet, but already into the officer environment and into schools, becoming for the most part the property of young people. An ordinary sailor had no right to wear them or alter the standard straight trousers of the uniform. But immediately after the February revolution, the situation changed again - every sailor considered it his duty to change his trousers to bell-bottoms, or to purchase them.

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This was opposition to the old system, and as is usual in such cases, enthusiasm sometimes went beyond all reasonable limits, and trousers became immeasurably wide. Bell-bellied trousers began to be worn with renewed vigor by civilians and sailors; anarchists considered them an obligatory part of the uniform.

Bell-bottomed pants today

In the modern Russian Navy, flared trousers are not worn; there is no such element in the uniform. But there is a comfortable and practical uniform with trousers of a standard cut, medium width, which is optimally suited for the current conditions in which sailors serve.

Thus, bell-bottom trousers appeared during sailing times. This cut attracted me with its practicality, as well as the ability to quickly remove it in case of a shipwreck or falling into the water. Bell-bottomed trousers are beautiful and comfortable, but today they are not used as an element of naval uniform, appearing from time to time only as part of civilian fashion.

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Some believe that this once came to the navy under the influence of fashion. What do you think?
Initially, flared trousers appeared in the navy. Fashion designers picked it up: it was manly in its own way. The trousers were sewn with a pipe from the hip so that the sailors would be comfortable in them. Sailors also came up with a storm bell-bottom with lead inserts for going on leave - an imitation of a storm. Later, hippies flared from the knee.
I heard from someone I don’t remember that bell-bottoms were actually the first to be worn by sailors, it seems, so that when you find yourself in the water you can quickly get rid of clothes, especially trousers, so as not to drown, hence the lead inserts and, accordingly, the special cut of the trousers themselves instead of the fly, the so-called flap .Not sure, but it seems logical, although maybe not so =)
You're right. They also made a slit on the collar so that the head can easily fit through and the sleeves are wide for quick removal :)
yes, the trousers were loose and had a fastening on the side so that once in the water you could easily get rid of excess)
Absolutely true with bell-bottoms and flaps - so you can get rid of clothes faster if you fall into the water.
There’s no way to get rid of trousers faster (put on regular ones first - jump into the water and free yourself - time it, then put on flared ones - flounder again - compare :)) Valve - I agree - to make it faster. Flank - to tear quickly - similarly. But the bell-bottom itself is to make it easier to roll up your pants (not to get them wet). I’m telling the truth :)
And then why did they sew the lead down the legs? Obviously not to roll them up, maybe so that the flares would dangle in different directions, but most likely there is some practical application here. Most likely, the pants would sort of slide down in the water under the weight of the lead plates.
About the so-called VALVE, I can tell a story that happened supposedly in the time of Peter 1: Peter 1 was walking along the embankment, and suddenly he saw a sailor fucking some girl in the bushes, the action itself was not visible from behind the bushes , but on the other hand, the sailor’s bare ass was visible, Peter 1 said that it was no good for a sailor to show his naked rear, and for the convenience of further fucking he came up with a VALVE, and the ass is covered, and you can fuck without taking off your naval pants :))))))))
approximately according to the meaning - the last story - in the training of the Pacific Fleet, the sergeant-major told ...
There is another version about the valve on flares; it dates back to the times of the sailing fleet, when you still had to climb the yards, and in order not to get caught on something with your fly, a valve was invented.
Bell-bottom trousers were actually invented by sailors. mid-18th century the trouser legs, grabbed by the bottom by hand, did not get wet during disembarkation and on the deck. English sailors.

It all started in the 19th century.

What is certain is that bell-bottom trousers originated in the navy and are inextricably linked with maritime traditions. Trousers widened at the bottom with galoshes were worn back in the days of sailing ships. It is also known that the name of the item of clothing comes from the French word “cloche” (“bell”). It is curious that despite its French roots, the United States was the first to officially adopt this form in 1810. Bell-bottoms came to Russia a little later.



Thanks to this shape, the trousers are easy to take off.

This trouser shape was chosen for its ease of fit. Such pants do not restrict movement and allow you to easily carry out daily duties on the ship. What is equally important is that they can be easily rolled up if necessary. They are also exceptionally comfortable when it comes to yard climbing. Finally, the pants are easy to remove even through boots. This is very important, since sailors always run the risk of falling into the water. In such a situation, you may need to quickly get rid of excess clothing so as not to go under. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that for the same reason, all naval jackets have a wide neckline - they can be easily removed over the head.


Bell-bottomed trousers - why sailors wore them.

In Russia, bell-bottom trousers have been used since the 19th century. Gradually they also found their way into the civilian environment. Many considered such clothes incredibly fashionable and they were right. However, with the departure of the sailing fleet, the specifics of the sailor’s work began to change, and with it, bell-bottom trousers began to go out of use.

AND There are two known romantic versions of the appearance of valves on sailor trousers:

1. Tsar Peter, walking along the embankment, saw a sailor making love to a woman in the bushes and flashing his naked “stern” in full view of passers-by, after which he issued a decree:

“Sailors are boorish creatures, but the girls continue to love them, so that they do not disgrace the Russian Navy, they should have trousers of the specified cut - the front part should be folded back, the back part would cover the butt!”

2. The second version is no less interesting:

Catherine the Great decided to visit the island of Kotlin - Kronstadt on a rowing boat with oarsmen; during the passage, a sailor sitting on the oars opposite the empress had his instrument fall out of his fly, which the queen observed until the boat moored in Kronstadt, after which a decree was issued prohibiting sewing sailor trousers with a fly.

In fact, everything was much more prosaic; let’s look at the issue from all sides.

A lapel is a special form of cut for the front of sailor trousers, when instead of a front slit with buttons there is a flap that is fastened on the sides of the pockets.

The front of the trousers had a folding flap, and together with wide legs, this model of trousers made it possible for a sailor who fell into the water to quickly get rid of his clothes and float up. When the two side fasteners came undone, all I had to do was quickly dangle my feet in the water and, due to the wide flares, the trousers would slide off on their own without touching my boots.

The presence of a folding flap (lapel) at the front made it possible to move freely along yards and narrow passages without the risk of getting caught on anything. The wide, loose cut of sailor trousers, like flannels, is also dictated by practical considerations. Every second is expensive at sea. You need to have a uniform that can be put on almost instantly.

In the era of the sailing fleet, sailors often walked barefoot, and wooden decks were constantly rolled up and washed. To avoid getting their trousers wet, the sailors rolled them up to the knees, and this could only be done if they were wide enough. It is very important that wide trousers are easy to take off in the water if you fall overboard. One way or another, the modern desire to narrow them (again, like flannel) contradicts real maritime traditions.

In fact, the lapel was once a completely popular element of clothing, and not only among sailors. If you have a tailcoat and a tailcoat set, then you also don’t have a fly or codpiece on your trousers! A strange relationship - a sailor and his trousers, an aristocrat and his trousers...

Trousers 1830:

The crease ironed on naval trousers is still quite young: this “novelty” appeared only at the beginning of the 20th century and immediately gave the naval suit an amazing completeness and elegance.

Today is not a happy day.

Minister of Defense Sergeev (graduated from the Nakhimov ChVVMU) knew how to strike harder at the traditions and appearance of the fleet: the peacoat was removed from wearing, standard trousers with a fly were introduced. “Economy,” so to speak, on “military and revolutionary traditions.”

It’s not for nothing that in L. Sobolev’s “Capital Repairs” there is the following dialogue:
- You know, future admiral, your pants are not witty, by God!..
- Form. Besides, a regular slot would be ugly. After all, the front of the trousers is not covered by anything.

Well, take a look for yourself:

For anyone who KNOWS what a naval uniform should look like, it’s unpleasant to look at. Moreover, the second one on the right has a badge, as we used to say, hanging on his balls, this is some kind of shame...
Let alone the fact that fabrics for uniforms have become completely different; in my time there was not a single artificial thread from top to bottom, only cotton and wool, whether in winter or summer. Although no, the buttons on the trousers and inside the flannel jacket, to which the blue sailor collar was attached, and on the sleeves of the white uniform were plastic - and that’s all.

This is how the sailor uniform was romantically described in its time:
“He had the right look! Black naval flared trousers with a sailor’s flap on the reproductive organ reek of tar. The cap on the back of his head with half-meter-long “braids” and gold anchors at the ends of the ribbons glows like a saint’s halo.
A wide belt with a copper anchor plaque shines like a polished iconostasis..."

I will return to naval clothing and its names later :)

I took parts of the text and pictures here.